Adult Crochet Hoodie Pattern with Granny Stitch

Whatever the season this granny stitch hoodie pattern is sure to be perfect for it! Whether you are looking to make a short sleeve granny top with a hood for Summer or a cozy long sleeved granny hoodie for the cooler seasons – this is the pattern you need!

In adult sizes from XS to 5XL (30″-62″ chest sizes) you can create any length of top you want and add optional sleeves (of any length) and finishing details to suit you.

In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to make this crochet hoodie, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.

Using the granny stitch for crochet clothes is such a fun and easy way to not only add colour (if you want to of course!) but also to add a beautiful drape to your work.

The delicate ch1 spaces between the granny clusters allows the fabric to flow and drape over your body perfectly and that’s why it’s so important to make sure to choose the right yarn for this project so that it isn’t too stiff!

Comfy Worsted is soft, machine washable, and lightweight yarn. Comfy is the ultimate solution for easy care and warm-weather projects.

The breathability and softness of natural Pima cotton allow for comfortable wearing, while the touch of acrylic microfiber adds just the right amount of elasticity. This worsted-weight cotton blend has superior wearability and longevity, which you are sure to appreciate over the years. Excellent stitch definition, too!

It’s a category 4, worsted weight yarn which gives a fabulous drape and feel to the top. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.

I used the colour Silver Sage to make my hoodie, but you don’t have to stick to just one colour!

If you are a lover of colour then why not go for it and add lots?! The range of different shades offered by Comfy Worsted really allows you to let your imagination run wild with your colour choices.

The beauty of this top is that it uses just basic stitches, has a super easy construction (top down and seamless) and is quick to make too.

If you love the granny style like me then you’ll also enjoy some of my other designs that use it! The granny stitch sweater uses a very similar construction but has a different neckline option.

If you are a beginner then the best place to start is with my granny square poncho pattern I think. This is another of my designs that works equally well with or without sleeves.

I also have an adult granny cardigan and a sweater in the same granny stitch style. Then of course if you have little ones in your life then you’ll need to get making for them too!

My Franny Granny patterns for children include a child granny stitch cardigan, sweater and hoodie 🙂

If you love all of the patterns then you might also love to join the Franny Granny Crochet Along for July and August 2024!

How much yarn do I need to crochet the hoodie?

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

This hoodie has been designed to let your colour imagination (and perhaps yarn stash) run free!

The following yarn amounts are estimated as a total as the pattern is written assuming a single colour is used and long sleeves added.

If you are using more colours (and I encourage you to do so!) you’ll need to decide on the percentages of the colour that you’d like to use within the hoodie before purchasing yarn.

You will require approximately 1375 (1510, 1600, 1700, 1765) (1830, 1930, 2040, 2130) metres, 1500 (1650, 1750, 1860, 1930) (2000, 2110, 2230, 2330) yards of yarn to crochet the hoodie.

This is 14, (16, 17, 18, 18) (19, 20, 21, 22) balls of the recommended yarn.

Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this easy granny stitch hoodie pattern to your Pinterest board!

Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Top

Included in the video tutorial:

The hoodie is made from the top down beginning with turned rows creating a Yoke with a point at the Front and Back.

Once the neck opening is at the desired depth, the Yoke is then joined to work in turned rounds. The Yoke is then split to create the Armholes and Body section.

The Body continues to work until the point of the Front and Back are at the desired length. The bottom of the hoodie is then decreased to make it level and the sides closed separately.

The Sleeves are then added by working around the armhole space created when the Yoke was split.

The Hood is then worked into the neckline and seamed at the top.

The Neckband and Bottom Band are then added to complete.

Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know

Glossary and Abbreviations

beg – beginning

blo – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)

GC – Granny Cluster (3dc or 2dc)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sp – space

ss/sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Yoh – yarn over hook

Yo slst – yarn over slip stitch

Stitches

The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:

sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)

dc – double crochet (UK tr – treble crochet)

Special Stitches

If you are new to working the granny stitch then why not try a starter project first? This easy granny stitch hat pattern is worked in rounds too and is a great place to practise those double crochet stitches.

Yo slst – Yarn over slip stitch

Yoh, insert your hook, yoh and pull through stitch and all loops on the hook.

Granny Cluster

The term Granny Cluster (GC) is used in the pattern in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc throughout. This is where we will see the look of the traditional granny stitch.

Stacked Double Crochet

A stacked double crochet is a great alternative to a turning chain that stacks 2 single crochet stitches on top of each other to reach the height of a double crochet.

Decrease Granny Cluster Stitch Over 2 Spaces (Cluster dec)

Dc in first ch1-sp, yoh, insert hook in the same ch1-sp and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and insert hook through next ch1-sp, pull up a loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, dc in same ch1-sp. This will create 1 group of stitches over 2 spaces from the previous round.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

This is only worked over chain spaces in this pattern: *Yoh, insert hook into next ch1-sp and pull up a loop. Yoh and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from *, yoh and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.

Making Your Crochet Granny Stitch Hoodie Perfect For You

Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.

The Hoodie is designed to have a slight amount of ease all over with tapered sleeves to a well fitted cuff.

The garment is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.

Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rows of the Body after you split for the Sleeves. Continue working increases (at the Front and Back) for as long as you would like your Hoodie to be before continuing to work the ‘Straight Section’ of the Body. Keep in mind that you will be adding a Bottom Band that will also add length afterwards.

Bands and Cuffs: You can add or subtract a small amount from each size by working more or less stitches or rounds for your Bands and Cuffs.

Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few Rounds of the Sleeves as you like before adding the Cuffs or Edging.

You can create a fuller Sleeve by continuing without decreasing if you would like to. You may then find that you need to slip stitch into more stitches when working the Cuff or drop down a hook size or two to make it fit well.

There are options for a full granny stitch Sleeve with a short cuff or a sleeveless option with no cuff or a simple cuff edging by skipping the sleeve instructions entirely.

Dress Version: If you would like a dress then you can work the Yoke and Body as detailed for the Hoodie but just continue to add length until you are happy. You can add the hood or leave it off. If you do not work the hood then your neckline edging will just work around the edge of the neckline instead of the hood.

There are lots of options discussed in the video tutorial so make sure to give it a watch before beginning your project.

• A ch1 at the beg does not count as a st.
• Work a stacked dc or ch3 at the beg of each Round as you prefer.
• The pattern is worked in turned rows to begin with and then changes to turned rounds.
• The pattern assumes that you are using the same colour throughout so will instruct you to slip stitch into the first st at the end of each Row or Round, then ss into the appropriate ch-sp before turning to continue the next Row or Round.
• If you are changing colour at the end of a Row, make sure to do it on the last yarn over and pull through of the Row.
• If changing colour on a Round, turn before re-joining your next colour into the appropriate ch-space between the Cluster Groups to begin the next Round
• Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
• If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) means that the XS and S sizes do not apply to this instruction.
• Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each Row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row.
• ‘Granny Cluster(s)’ in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc and 2dc throughout.

Copyright Notice

The Franny Granny Hoodie Crochet Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.

This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd).

Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.

Pattern Support

I am delighted to invite you to join the HanJan Crochet Community Facebook Group where we host all pattern support queries and love to see your progress, yarn choices and finished projects!

Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View

US Terminology

Size 2XL only

Work as for XL Size to Round 24.

Round 25: Repeat Round 7. [86 GC and ch-sps]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

Size 3XL only

Foundation chain: ch 120

Row 1: stacked dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * across to last 3chs, dc in last 3chs, turn. [30 Granny Clusters, 29 ch-sps]

Row 2: (note – work first dc of every Row or Round as a stacked dc throughout pattern) 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)  14 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)  14 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [32 GC, 31 ch-sps, (1 of which is a ch2-sp from this row onwards)]

Row 3: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35 ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39 ch-sps]

Row 5: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [42 GC, 41 ch-sps]

Row 6: Repeat Row 5, ending with ch2, ss into 1st st to join into a round, turn. [44 GC, 44 ch-sps (2 of which are a ch2-sp from this row onwards)].

Break yarn. This has created the join for the Front of the hoodie.

The Yoke is now worked in turned rounds.

With the WS of the sts from the last row facing you, join yarn to the Back ch2-sp to begin the next round.

Round 7: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [48 GC and ch-sps]

Round 8: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [52 GC and ch-sps]

Round 9: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [54 GC and ch-sps]

Round 10: Repeat Round 9. [56 GC and ch-sps]

Round 11: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [60 GC and ch-sps]

Round 12: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [64 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 13-14: Repeat Round 9. [68 GC and ch-sps]

Round 15: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [72 GC and ch-sps]

Round 16: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [76 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 17-18: Repeat Round 9. [80 GC and ch-sps]

Round 19: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [84 GC and ch-sps]

Round 20: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [88 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 21-22: Repeat Round 9. [92 GC and ch-sps]

Round 23: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [96 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 24-26: Repeat Round 9. [102 GC and ch-sps at end of Round 26]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

Size 4XL only

Foundation chain: ch 128

Row 1: stacked dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * across to last 3chs, dc in last 3chs, turn. [32 Granny Clusters, 31 ch-sps]

Row 2: (note – work first dc of every Row or Round as a stacked dc throughout pattern) 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)  15 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)  15 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [34 GC, 33 ch-sps, (1 of which is a ch2-sp from this row onwards)]

Row 3: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35 ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39 ch-sps]

Row 5: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 GC, 43 ch-sps]

Row 6: Repeat Row 3, ending with ch2, ss into 1st st to join into a round, turn. [46 GC, 46 ch-sps (2 of which are a ch2-sp from this row onwards)].

Break yarn. This has created the join for the Front of the Dress.

The Yoke is now worked in turned rounds.

With the WS of the sts from the last row facing you, join yarn to the Back ch2-sp to begin the next round.

Round 7: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [48 GC and ch-sps]

Round 8: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [52 GC and ch-sps]

Round 9: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [56 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 10-11: Repeat Round 7. [60 GC and ch-sps]

Round 12: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [64 GC and ch-sps]

Round 13: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [68 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 14-15: Repeat Round 7. [72 GC and ch-sps]

Round 16: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [76 GC and ch-sps]

Round 17: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [80 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 18-19: Repeat Round 7. [84 GC and ch-sps]

Round 20: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [88 GC and ch-sps]

Round 21: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [92 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 22-27: Repeat Round 7. [104 GC and ch-sps at end of Round 27]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

Size 5XL only

Work as Size 4XL to Round 21.

Rounds 22-23: Repeat Round 7. [96 GC and ch-sps]

Round 24: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [100 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 25-28: Repeat Round 7. [108 GC and ch-sps at end of Round 28]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES

All sizes

Before beginning to split for Sleeves, you need to mark the ch1-sps with stitch markers to make creating the armholes easier on the first Round of this section.

Counting from either ch2-sp, skip 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) (15, 17, 17, 18) ch1-sps. Place a stitch marker in the next ch1-sp.

Skip the next 10 (9, 8, 10, 11) (10, 14, 15, 15) ch1-sps, place another stitch marker into the next ch1-sp. This will create a space for the armhole. Repeat this on the other side of the Sweater working from the next ch2-sp.

The premium PDF pattern includes instructional yoke diagrams.

Round 1: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last ch1-sp before the stitch marker, 3dc in next ch1-sp (where the st marker is), ch2 (8, 8, 8, 8) (14, 8, 14, 20) – for underarm extension, skip to ch1-sp with next stitch marker in, 3dc in ch1-sp with st marker in, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) from stitch marker to the next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 (48, 52, 60, 64) (68, 76, 76, 80) GC, 2 x underarm chains of 2 (8, 8, 8, 8) (14, 8, 14, 20)]

Size XS only

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the underarm ch2, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc2tog over ch2, 3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next  GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes: – (S, M, L, XL) (-, 3XL, -, -)

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 8, 3dc in 1st ch, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [- (52, 56, 64, 68)(-, 80, -, -) GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes: – (-, -, -, -)(2XL, -, 4XL, -)

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 14,  3dc in 1st ch, ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [ – (-,-,-,-)(76,-, 84, -) GC, 2 dc2tog]

Size 5XL only:

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 20, 3dc in 1st ch, (ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, (3dc in next ch, ch1, skip 2ch) twice, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [ – (-,-,-,-)(-,-,-, 92) GC, 2 dc2tog]

All Sizes:

Round 3: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc2tog, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc2tog of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 (52, 56, 64, 68)(76, 80, 84, 92) GC, 2dc]

Rounds 4-5: Repeat Round 3 to increase the length of the Sweater.

If you would like your Sweater longer then you can continue to add Rounds here before flattening the bottom and closing the sides.

FLATTEN BOTTOM AND CLOSE SIDES

All sizes

We are now ready to flatten the bottom and close the sides of the Sweater. This is done one side at a time working in turned Rows between the ch2-sps at the Front and Back of the Sweater.

Continue with the yarn in the ch2-sp you have slip stitched into.

Row 1: stacked dc in ch2-sp, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last  but onech1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in last ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in ch2-sp, turn. [20 (24, 26, 30, 32) (36, 38, 40, 44) GC, 3dc]

Row 2: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [18 (22, 24, 28, 30) (34, 36, 38, 42) GC, 3dc]

Row 2 sets the decrease pattern for the Sweater side.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 4 3dc GC and 3dc.

Next Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [2 GC, 3dc]

Last Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, dc in last dc. [3dc]

Break yarn. Join yarn to ch2-sp that has WS of previous row facing from where you split for sleeves.

Repeat the Flatten Bottom and Close Sides Section.

BOTTOM BAND EDGING

All Sizes

Continuing with yarn from second side, work the Bottom Band to create a simple edging.

Round 1: ch1, 2 yo slst in side of each dc around the Sweater edge. Do not join or turn, work in continuous rounds now.

Round 2: yo slst in 3rd loop of each st around, ss in 1st st to join.

Break yarn and weave in ends.

You can work as many or as few rounds of the Simple Edging as you like.

SLEEVES

All Sizes

For a sleeveless version you do not need to work any further rounds. The last round of the Yoke becomes the edge of the sleeve.

To add sleeves: With WS facing, join yarn to ch1-sp nearest the armhole (this is a ch1-sp that doesn’t have any stitches in yet and isn’t joined for the armhole).

Make two matching Sleeves.

Round 1 of the Sleeve differs for each size to ensure the correct number of GC are added to the armhole.

They will be written individually then from Round 2 onwards will be grouped again in the pattern.

Size: XS

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 11

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over ch2 of underarm extension, dc in next ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [11 GC and ch-sps]

Size: S

Armhole ch1-sps = 9

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 12

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 3ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [12 GC and ch-sps]

Size: M

Armhole ch1-sps = 8

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 13

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, 3dc in 1st ch of underarm extension, ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 3ch, 3dc in last ch of underarm extension, ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [13 GC and ch-sps]

Size: L

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 15

Round 1: As per Medium. [15 GC and ch-sps]

Size: XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 11

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 16

Round 1: As per Medium. [16 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 2XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 17

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, 3dc in 1st ch of underarm extension, (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, skip next 2ch, 3dc in last ch of underarm extension, ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [17 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 3XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 14

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 19

Round 1: As per Medium. [19 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 4XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 15

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 20

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [20 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 5XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 15

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 22

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) three times, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [22 GC and ch-sps]

SLEEVE BODY

All Sizes

The sleeves can now be worked in any way that you would like. As pictured there are options for full granny stitch sleeves with a simple cuff or a sleeveless option with no cuff.

For a sleeveless version you do not need to work any further rounds. The last round of the Yoke becomes the edge of the sleeve.

You need to be able to work a ‘straight’ round for the sleeves (that keeps the stitch count the same) and a ‘decrease’ round that decreases your amount of Granny Clusters by 1 per round.

You can decrease your sleeves at any point that you like using the decrease rounds.

The following uses standard measurements for a gently shaped and fitted full sleeve with a short cuff but remember that you can try on your garment as you go to make sure that you decrease at the right pace for the perfect fit for you.

After completing Round 1 of the Sleeve for your size, we can now work the remaining rounds as follows:

Straight Round: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

Decrease Round: Cluster dec over next 2 ch1-sps, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

FULL GRANNY STITCH SLEEVE – DECREASE GUIDE

Work a decrease on the following rounds:

XS Decrease Rounds: 7, 15, 23, 30

S Decrease Rounds: 7, 13, 21, 26, 30

M Decrease Rounds: 7, 13, 19, 24, 30

L Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 11, 16, 21, 26, 30

XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 11, 16, 21, 26, 30

2XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 14, 19, 23, 27, 30

3XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 17, 21, 24, 27, 30

4XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30

5XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 21, 23, 27, 29, 31

Continue to Sleeve Cuff Edging.

SLEEVE CUFF EDGING

All sizes

With the RS of the Hoodie facing you, join yarn to stitch at underarm seam on Sleeve edge.

Round 1: ch1, 2 yo slst in side of each dc around the Sleeve edge. Do not join or turn, work in continuous rounds now.

Round 2: yo slst in 3rd loop of each st around.

You can work as many or as few rounds of the Sleeve Cuff Edging as you like.

HOOD

All Sizes

Straight Section:

With WS of first row of Yoke stitches facing, join yarn to first st to begin.

Row 1: stacked dc in 1st stitch, skip next 2 sts, GC in next ch1-sp, *ch1, skip next GC, GC in next ch1-sp; rep from * across to last ch1-sp, skip next 2 sts of last GC, dc in last st, turn. [23 (23, 23, 25, 27) (27, 29, 31, 31) GC, 22 (22, 22, 24, 26) (26, 28, 30, 30) ch1-sps, 2dc]

Row 2: (stacked dc, 2dc) in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *GC in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * across, 3dc in last st, turn. [24, 24, 24, 26, 28) (28, 30, 32, 32) GC, 23 (23, 23, 25, 27) (27, 29, 31, 31) ch1-sps]

Rows 1 and 2 create the Pattern.

Rows 3 – 18 (18, 18, 16, 14) (14, 12, 10, 10): Repeat the Pattern.

First Side Decrease Section:

Row 1: stacked dc in 1st stitch, skip next 2 sts, GC in next ch1-sp, (ch1, skip next GC, GC in next ch1-sp) 9 (9, 9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 13) times, ch1, skip next GC, Cluster dec over next 2 ch1-sps, turn [11 (11, 11, 12, 13) (13, 14, 15, 15) GC, 10 (10, 10, 11, 12) (12, 13, 14, 14) ch1-sps, 1dc]

Row 2: stacked dc in 1st stitch, skip next 2 sts (of the Cluster dec from previous row), GC in next ch1-sp, *ch1, skip next GC, GC in next ch1-sp; rep from * to last ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, GC in last dc, turn.

Row 3: stacked dc in 1st stitch, skip next 2 sts, GC in next ch1-sp, *ch1, skip next GC, GC in next ch1-sp; rep from * to 2nd to last ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, Cluster dec over next ch1-sp and last dc, turn. [10 (10, 10, 11, 12) (12, 13, 14, 14) GC, 9 (9, 9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 13) ch1-sps, 1dc]

Rows 2 and 3 create the Hood Set Pattern

Rows 4 – 7 (7, 7, 9, 11) (11, 13, 15, 15): Repeat the Hood Set Pattern. [8 GC and 7 ch-sps, 1 dc for all sizes]. Break Yarn.

Second Side Decrease Section:

Work the other side of the hood decrease section by joining yarn in the same ch1-sp that Row 1 of the first side of the decrease section finished (this will be where you completed your first Cluster dec on Row 1.)

We will now work a mirror image of the first decrease section.

Row 1: Cluster dec over same and next ch1-sp, *ch1, skip next GC, GC in next ch1-sp; rep from * across to last ch1-sp, skip next 2 sts of last GC, dc in last st, turn.  [11 (11, 11, 12, 13) (13, 14, 15, 15) GC, 10 (10, 10, 11, 12) (12, 13, 14, 14) ch1-sps, 1dc]

Row 2: (stacked dc, 2dc) in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *GC in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * to last ch1-sp, skip next 2 sts of last GC, dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Cluster dec over 1st st and next ch1-sp (using a stacked dc as 1st st), ch1, skip next GC, GC in next ch1-sp; rep from * across to last ch1-sp, skip next 2 sts of last GC, dc in last st, turn. [10 (10, 10, 11, 12) (12, 13, 14, 14) GC, 9 (9, 9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 13) ch1-sps, 1dc]

Rows 2 and 3 create the Second Hood Set Pattern

Rows 4 – 7 (7, 7, 9, 11) (11, 13, 15, 15): Repeat the Second Hood Set Pattern. [8 GC and 7 ch-sps, 1 dc for all sizes]. Break Yarn.

With the WS facing you and beginning at the front of the Hood, sew the seam at the top and back together to complete the Hood.

NECK AND HOOD BAND

With the RS of the Hoodie facing you, join yarn to the sewn seam at the very top centre of the Hood.

Round 1: ch1, 2 yo slst in the side of each dc  around the Hood and Neckline, ss in 1st st to join.

If you would like to work more Rounds then  do not join or turn, work in continuous rounds now after Round 1.

Round 2: yo slst in 3rd loop of each st around.

You can work as many or as few rounds of the Neckline Edging as you like.

If you have chosen not to add the hood then you can work the neckband in the same way by joining the the centre back stitch of the neckline and working around the neckline instead of the hood.

If you have chosen short sleeves or a sleeveless version then you can also do this on the final round of the sleeves too.

When you are happy with your garment, weave in all ends and block to measurements.

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Inspiration: Other Granny Stitch Patterns

If you enjoy crocheting all things granny stitch then you’ll love these too:

• Granny Square Crop Top – quick, fun and bang on trend.
• Granny Stitch Stocking – a bit of festive fun!
• Granny Square Sweater – a super easy beginner make using just 4 granny squares.

Congratulations on completing your granny stitch crochet hoodie! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun make, what’s next? Jump into my other fun adult crochet garment patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.

Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨