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Let’s have some festive fun with this stunning Mosaic Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern! With 5 different mosaic crochet designs to choose from, you can create unique stockings for everyone.
Hanging stockings on the fireplace is such a wonderful tradition. What better way to make these moments even more special than by crocheting your own stockings to cherish year after year?
In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to make these overlay mosaic crochet stockings, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.
Did you know that overlay mosaic crochet only uses single and double crochet stitches? They are just ever so cleverly placed in the front and back loops to create wonderful designs and patterns.
There are five different mosaic crochet designs to choose from for your stocking, so you’ve really been spoilt for choice. You can keep it simple with a stripe design, or go all out with the Mix It Stocking. Or maybe just make them all!
I now have quite a selection of mosaic crochet patterns in you would like more inspiration.
The stockings pair beautifully with my crochet Christmas blanket pattern, and you can even choose the same yarn to match!
Yarn
To make the mosaic crochet stocking I used Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK from Mary Maxim, which is 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g for the solid colour, and Premier Colorfusion DK from Mary Maxim, 100% Acrylic, 298m/325yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn.
I also made some of my stocking using Mellowspun DK, which is 100% Acrylic, 260m/284yds/100g for the solid colour, and Prism DK, which is 100% Acrylic, 265m/290yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn.
Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK is a 100% acrylic fiber that is specially formulated to reduce the formation of pills over time. As it is made with fibers that resist pilling, it will last longer, look newer, and feel softer. This yarn is ideal for apparel and home décor projects like afghans, baby clothing, sweaters, and baby blankets.
ColorFusion DK is perfect for soft, easy care knit and crochet projects. Featuring the same gorgeous range of self-striping hues from Colorfusion Chunky, it is perfect for creating colorful pieces with ease.
Mellowspun DK is an updated and enhanced collection from Mary Maxim perfect for everyday makes! Crafted from 100% premium acrylic with a unique twist in 33 delectable hues that harmonise and elevate one another.
Prism DK is available in more than 10 unique, rippling colour schemes, offering you the best of both worlds in feel and appearance. A soft yarn spun in both bright and subtle beautiful colour schemes, making it perfect for all your creative crochet projects.
These are all category 3, light weight yarns which gives a soft and delicate drape to the stockings. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.
Yarn Substitutes
You can use any yarn that you like bearing in mind that you need to make sure you meet the gauge. Some other great options are:
- Solid Colour Yarn A: Paintbox Simply DK, 100% acrylic, 302yds/100g or Premier Basix DK, 100% acrylic, 306yds/100g
- Multi Colour Yarn B: Lion Brand Mandala Ombre, 100% acrylic, 344yds/150g or King Cole Riot DK, 70% acrylic, 30% wool, 322yds/100g
Things you’ll love about this crochet Christmas stocking pattern
The real beauty of this pattern is that it uses just basic crochet stitches (just single crochet and double crochet). Once you get to grips with the overlay mosaic crochet technique, these stockings really are so simple to crochet.
Getting Started: Materials Needed for Your Mosaic Crochet Stocking
Sizing
Each stocking is 6” wide x 19” at longest point. (40.5cm x 48cm).
How much yarn do I need to crochet an overlay mosaic stocking?
This design uses 2 yarns that have been carefully selected to work well together. The below yarn amounts are approximate and any changes you make will adjust the amount of yarn you need.
You will require approximately 210 metres, 230 yards of yarn A.
This is 1 ball of the recommended solid colour yarn.
You will require approximately 140 metres, 155 yards of yarn B.
This is 1 ball of the recommended multi-colour yarn.
Other Materials
Along with your yarn, you will need the following:
- 4mm(G) crochet hook or hook needed to meet gauge
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this crochet Christmas stocking pattern to your crochet Pinterest board!
Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Stocking
Come along as I crochet a stocking in this step-by-step video tutorial. Press play to watch here or choose to watch on YouTube:
Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know
Glossary and Abbreviations
beg – beginning
blo – back loop only
ch(s) – chain(s)
ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
flo – front loop only
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
ss/sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tog – together
WS – wrong side
Yoh – yarn over hook
Stitches
The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:
sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)
Mdc – Mosaic double crochet (UK Mtr – Mosaic treble crochet)
Special Stitches
This pattern uses the overlay mosaic crochet technique. Whilst it might look complicated, the only stitches you need to know are the single crochet and the Mosaic double crochet.
In overlay mosaic crochet we are always working our single crochet stitches into the back loop, leaving the front loops free to work a Mosaic double crochet in where necessary.
SINGLE CROCHET (sc) always worked in back loop only (blo).
Insert hook from front to back through back loop of stitch to be worked. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
MOSAIC DOUBLE CROCHET (Mdc)
A Mosaic double crochet stitch is worked in exactly the same way as a regular US double crochet (UK treble crochet) is. The only difference is where it is worked.
When you need to work a Mosaic double crochet you’ll need to find the front loop of the corresponding stitch 2 rounds below. This is where you will work your stitch.
Top tip – it will be in the same colour of yarn as the one you are currently working in!
Yarn over and insert hook into front loop of stitch two rounds below. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on the hook.
The stitch behind the Mdc on the current round is left unworked.
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (Fsc)
Step 1: Ch 2, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the first Fsc.
Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 6: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the next Fsc. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.
Constructing your Crochet Christmas Stocking
The stocking is made from the Toe up, with an afterthought Heel and a Join As You Go Cuff to finish.
The Foot and Leg are made using overlay mosaic crochet in the round.
Customisation
The stocking is easily customisable in length of both the Foot and Leg – just keep repeating rounds of the mosaic repeat until you have the length you’d like.
The Cuff is adjustable – work more or less chains to set the length you’d like.
Before you jump into crocheting your Christmas stocking, take a moment to read through the pattern notes—it’s a game-changer!
These handy insights will not only simplify your pattern-reading journey but also ensure a smoother crochet experience. You’ll find helpful tips on deciphering the sizing, customisation and more.
Trust me, a quick peek at these notes will set you up for crochet success!
- The pattern is worked in rounds using the overlay mosaic crochet technique for the Foot and Leg.
- All stitches in the Mosaic Sections are worked as sc in blo or Mdc.
- Each Round uses just one colour.
- A ch1 at the beginning or end of a Round does not count as a stitch.
- The Toe and Heel are worked in continuous Rounds.
- Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round.
If you love this mosaic crochet pattern as much as I do, then you’re definitely going to love this crochet Christmas blanket pattern too!
Free Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern
There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:
- View the free pattern on the blog – all blog subscribers will be able to view the written pattern supported by ads by logging into their Grow account.
- Purchase the individual pattern on Etsy or Ravelry as a beautifully formatted PDF with extra stitch charts, schematic and colour information page and more!
Upgrade to the ad-free PDF download (includes mosaic charts!)
Perfect to print out or use on any device, with added schematic and charts, colour inspiration and stitch tutorials!
Copyright Notice
The Yuletide Mosaic Crochet Stockings Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.
This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd).
Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.
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Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View
US Terminology
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Pattern Gauge
18.5 sts and 19 rounds of overlay mosaic crochet = 4″ by 4″ using 4mm hook
Making a crochet gauge swatch is particularly important when crocheting projects (and even more so for garments) to ensure that it ends up the desired size.
ALL STOCKINGS
TOE
Using Yarn A, make a Magic Ring to begin.
Round 1: 8sc into the Magic Ring [8] working in continuous Rounds.
Round 2: 2sc in each st around. [16]
Round 3: sc in each st around. [16]
Round 4: *2sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. [24]
Round 5: sc in each st around. [24]
Round 6: *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around. [32]
Round 7: sc in each st around. [32]
Round 8: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. [40]
Round 9: sc in each st around. [40]
Round 10: *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * around. [48]
Round 11: sc in each st around.[48]
Round 12: *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. [56]
Round 13: sc in blo of each st around, ss in 1st to join, change to B. [56]
Continue for Foot and Leg. Follow the written pattern for the design of your choice or upgrade to the pdf for the Mosaic Charts.
IN LANES STOCKING
For this version I used: Premier Everyday Linen, Prism DK Sunset
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Rounds 4-25: Rep Rounds 2-3
LEG
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 29-66: Rep Rounds 27-28.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
BOX IT STOCKING
For this version I used: Mellowspun Buff, Prism DK Tropics
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 5-24: Rep Rounds 1-4.
Round 25: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 30: A: Rep Round 28.
Rounds 31-66: Rep Rounds 27-30.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
KNOT STOCKING
For this version I used: Prism Autumn Mist, Mellowspun Sand
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 8: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 3.
Round 10: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 11-20: Rep Rounds 1-10.
Rounds 21-25: Rep Rounds 1-5.
LEG
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 30: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 31: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 32: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 33: B: Rep Round 29.
Round 34: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 35: B: Rep Round 27.
Round 36: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 37-66: Rep Rounds 27-36.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
LABYRINTH STOCKING
For this version I used: Mellowspun Buff, ColorFusion Vintage
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 7.
Round 10: A: Rep Round 6.
Round 11: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 12: A: Rep Round 4.
Round 13: B: Rep Round 3.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 15-25: Rep Rounds 3-13.
LEG
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 30: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 31: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 32: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 33: B: Rep Round 31.
Round 34: A: Rep Round 30.
Round 35: B: Rep Round 29.
Round 36: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 37: B: Rep Round 27.
Round 38: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 39-62: Rep Rounds 27-38 two more times.
Rounds 63-66: Rep Rounds 27-30.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
MIX IT STOCKING
For this version I used: Colorfusion Woodland, Mellowspun Sand
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 9: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 10: A: Rep Round 8.
Round 11: B: Rep Round 7.
Round 12: A: Rep Round 6.
Round 13: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 4.
Round 15: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 16: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 17: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 18: A: Rep Round 16.
Round 19: B: Rep Round 17.
Round 20: A: Rep Round 16.
Round 21: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 22: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 23: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 24: A: Rep Round 22.
Round 25: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 30: A: Rep Round 22.
Rounds 31-33: Rep Rounds 27-29.
Rounds 34-38: Rep Rounds 16-20.
Rounds 39-63: Rep Rounds 1-25.
Round 64: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 65: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 66: A: Rep Round 64.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
CUFF
Continuing from last Round of Leg, the Cuff is worked in Join As You Go turned rows. Rotate the work 90 degrees to work in Rows around the last Round of the Leg.
Ch25 (or desired length of cuff remembering that this will be folded over in half).
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each along [24], ss in next st of last Round of Leg, turn.
Row 2: sc in blo of each st, turn. [24]
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of last Round of Leg, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around.
Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete.
Weave in ends and fold over Cuff into place.
HEEL
With RS facing, join yarn to any corner stitch of heel opening. Work in continuous Rounds for the heel from Round 2 onwards.
Round 1: *sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts; rep from * twice more. [45]
Round 2: *sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 10 sts. [41]
Round 3: *sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 9 sts. [37]
Round 4: *sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 8 sts. [33]
Round 5: *sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 7 sts. [29]
Round 6: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 6 sts. [25]
Round 7: *sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 5 sts. [21]
Round 8: *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 4 sts. [17]
Round 9: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 3 sts. [13]
Break yarn and seam last Round together by sewing through all 13 stitches and pulling together to join heel.
Weave in all ends and block lightly to measurements.
HANGING TIE
You can add any kind of hanging tie to the inside of your cuff that you like. I used simple ribbon for mine.
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More Christmas Crochet Patterns You Might Enjoy
If you’ve enjoyed making this crochet Christmas stocking pattern, then why not try a few more? Here’s a few other of my designs you might like:
- Easy mosaic crochet bauble – continue your love of mosaic crochet with this cute bauble
- Easy crochet stocking pattern – using the granny stitch.
- Christmas crochet gnome pattern – an adorable decoration to make
Congratulations on crocheting your very own overlay mosaic crochet Christmas stocking! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun project, why stop here? Dive into my other Christmas crochet patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.
Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨
