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Let’s create some show stopping festive decorations with this Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern! There are 5 different mosaic crochet designs to choose from, so you can create lots of different versions. You’ve seen my full-size crochet Christmas stocking pattern already, but I couldn’t resist making them in miniature too!
Make these mini crochet stockings to hang on your Christmas tree, or how about using them as cutlery holders as part of your festive table setting? They’d also look amazing strung up as a garland, or made into an advent calendar!
There are really so many different uses for these cute little stockings, so I think we’re going to need to make a whole bunch of them!
In this post you’ll find everything you need to make these overlay mosaic mini crochet stockings, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.
Scroll down for your Thanksgiving Treat! Download a chart for one of the stockings for free today! Sign in/up for your Grow account and it will appear for you 🙂
Did you know that overlay mosaic crochet only uses single and double crochet stitches? They are just ever so cleverly placed in the front and back loops to create wonderful designs and patterns.
There are five different mosaic crochet designs to choose from for your mini stocking, so you’ve really been spoilt for choice. You can keep it simple with a stripe design, or go all out with the Mix It Stocking. Or maybe just make them all!
I now have quite a selection of mosaic crochet patterns if you would like more inspiration.
The stockings also pair beautifully with my crochet Christmas blanket pattern, and you can even use the same yarn to match!
Yarn
To make this crochet stocking ornament I used Mellowspun DK, 100% Acrylic, 260m/284yds/100g for the solid colour, and Prism DK, 100% Acrylic, 265m/290yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn.
For my mini stockings shown in the images, I used Mellowspun in Sand and Prism in Sunset.
You could also use Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK which is 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g for the solid colour, and ColorFusion DK which is 100% Acrylic, 298m/325yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn. I used these for the larger stockings.
Mellowspun DK is an updated and enhanced collection from Mary Maxim perfect for everyday makes! Crafted from 100% premium acrylic with a unique twist in 33 delectable hues that harmonise and elevate one another.
Prism DK is available in more than 10 unique, rippling colour schemes, offering you the best of both worlds in feel and appearance. A soft yarn spun in both bright and subtle beautiful colour schemes, making it perfect for all your creative crochet projects.
These are all category 3, light weight yarns which gives a soft and delicate drape to the stockings. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.
Yarn Substitutes
You can use any yarn that you like bearing in mind that you need to make sure you meet the gauge. Some other great options are:
- Solid Colour Yarn A: Paintbox Simply DK, 100% acrylic, 302yds/100g or Premier Basix DK, 100% acrylic, 306yds/100g
- Multi Colour Yarn B: Lion Brand Mandala Ombre, 100% acrylic, 344yds/150g or King Cole Riot DK, 70% acrylic, 30% wool, 322yds/100g
Things you’ll love about this mini crochet Christmas stocking pattern
The real beauty of this pattern is that it uses just basic crochet stitches (just single crochet and double crochet). Once you get to grips with the overlay mosaic crochet technique, these mini stockings really are so simple to crochet.
Getting Started: Materials Needed for Your Crochet Stocking Ornament Pattern
Sizing
Each stocking is 2.25” wide x 6.25” at longest point. (5.7cm x 15.8cm).
How much yarn do I need to crochet a seamless crochet stocking?
This design uses 2 yarns that have been carefully selected to work well together. The below yarn amounts are approximate and any changes you make will adjust the amount of yarn you need.
You will require approximately 60 metres, 65 yards of yarn A.
This is 1 ball of the recommended solid colour yarn.
You will require approximately 42 metres, 45 yards of yarn B.
This is 1 ball of the recommended multi-colour yarn.
Other Materials
Along with your yarn, you will need the following:
- 4mm(G) crochet hook or hook needed to meet gauge
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this mini crochet Christmas stocking pattern to your crochet Pinterest board!
Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Stocking
Come along as I crochet a mini stocking in this step-by-step video tutorial. Press play to watch here or choose to watch on YouTube:
Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know
Glossary and Abbreviations
beg – beginning
blo – back loop only
ch(s) – chain(s)
ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
flo – front loop only
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
ss/sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tog – together
WS – wrong side
Yoh – yarn over hook
Stitches
The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:
sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)
Mdc – Mosaic double crochet (UK Mtr – Mosaic treble crochet)
Special Stitches
This pattern uses the overlay mosaic crochet technique. Whilst it might look complicated, the only stitches you need to know are the single crochet and the Mosaic double crochet.
In overlay mosaic crochet we are always working our single crochet stitches into the back loop, leaving the front loops free to work a Mosaic double crochet in where necessary.
SINGLE CROCHET (sc) always worked in back loop only (blo).
Insert hook from front to back through back loop of stitch to be worked. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
MOSAIC DOUBLE CROCHET (Mdc)
A Mosaic double crochet stitch is worked in exactly the same way as a regular US double crochet (UK treble crochet) is. The only difference is where it is worked.
When you need to work a Mosaic double crochet you’ll need to find the front loop of the corresponding stitch 2 rounds below. This is where you will work your stitch.
Top tip – it will be in the same colour of yarn as the one you are currently working in!
Yarn over and insert hook into front loop of stitch two rounds below. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on the hook.
The stitch behind the Mdc on the current round is left unworked.
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (Fsc)
Step 1: Ch 2, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the first Fsc.
Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 6: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the next Fsc. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.
Constructing your Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking
The stocking is made from the Toe up, with an afterthought Heel and a Join As You Go Cuff to finish.
The Foot and Leg are made using overlay mosaic crochet in the round.
Customisation
The stocking is easily customisable in length of both the Foot and Leg – just keep repeating rounds of the mosaic repeat until you have the length you’d like.
The Cuff is adjustable – work more or less chains to set the length you’d like.
Before you jump into crocheting your mini Christmas stocking, take a moment to read through the pattern notes—it’s a game-changer!
These handy insights will not only simplify your pattern-reading journey but also ensure a smoother crochet experience. You’ll find helpful tips on deciphering the sizing, customisation and more.
Trust me, a quick peek at these notes will set you up for crochet success!
- The pattern is worked in rounds using the overlay mosaic crochet technique for the Foot and Leg.
- All stitches in the Mosaic Sections are worked as sc in blo or Mdc.
- Each Round uses just one colour.
- A ch1 at the beginning or end of a Round does not count as a stitch.
- The Toe and Heel are worked in continuous Rounds.
- Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round.
- If following charts for the Mosaic Sections then you will need to follow the written pattern for the Toe, Heel and Cuff.
If you love this mosaic crochet pattern as much as I do, then you’re definitely going to love this crochet Christmas blanket pattern too!
Free Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern
There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:
- View the free pattern on the blog – all blog subscribers will be able to view the written pattern supported by ads by logging into their Grow account.
- Purchase the individual pattern on Etsy or Ravelry as a beautifully formatted PDF with extra stitch charts, schematic and colour information page and more!
Upgrade to the ad-free PDF download (includes mosaic charts!)
Perfect to print out or use on any device, with added schematic and charts, colour inspiration and stitch tutorials!
Copyright Notice
The Mini Yuletide Mosaic Crochet Stockings Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.
This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd).
Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.
Pattern Support
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Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View
US Terminology
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Your Thanksgiving Treat!
Download your FREE chart for one of the stockings today!
I know that lots of people are intimidated by mosaic charts so thought I’d share this one with you so that you can have a go to see if you prefer them to the written pattern 🙂
BOX IT STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 1-4.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 1.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 12.
Rounds 15-18: Rep Rounds 11-14.
Round 19: Rep Round 11.
Round 20: Rep Round 12.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
KNOT STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 8: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 3.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 12.
Round 15: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 16: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 17: B: Rep Round 15.
Round 18: A: Rep Round 12.
Round 19: B: Rep Round 13.
Round 20: A: Rep Round 12.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
LABYRINTH STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 7.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 15: B: Rep Round 13.
Round 16: A: Rep Round 12.
Round 17: B: Rep Round 11.
Round 18: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 19: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 20: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
MIX IT STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: Rep Round 6.
Round 9: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 15: B: Rep Round 13.
Round 16: A: Rep Round 14.
Round 17: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 18: A: Rep Round 14.
Rounds 19-20: Rep Rounds 17-18.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
CUFF
Continuing from last Round of Leg, the Cuff is worked in Join As You Go turned Rows. Rotate the work 90 degrees to work in Rows around the last Round of the Leg.
Ch13 (or desired length of cuff remembering that this will be folded over in half).
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each along [12], ss in next st of last Round of Leg, turn.
Row 2: sc in blo of each st, turn. [12]
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of last Round of Leg, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around.
Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete.
Weave in ends and fold over Cuff into place.
HEEL
With RS facing, join yarn to any corner stitch of heel opening. Work in continuous Rounds for the heel from Round 2 onwards.
Round 1: *sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts; rep from * around. [14]
Round 2: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. [12]
Round 3: sc2tog around. [6]
Break yarn and seam last Round together by sewing through all 6 stitches and pulling together to join heel.
Weave in all ends and block lightly to measurements.
HANGING TIE FOR TREE
You can add any kind of hanging tie to the inside of your cuff that you like. I used simple twine for mine but a ribbon would be beautiful too.
You can either hang them on a tree or create a garland for your mantle or door with them.
PLACE SETTING
Why not use these as cutlery holders at your table for a festive feast? Pop them on top of your napkin with the cutlery in them and your guests will have a special gift to keep.
ADVENT CALENDAR
How about making a whole bunch of them to create the most stunning advent calendar?!
The possibilities are endless with these cute little stockings and I can’t wait to see what you do!
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More Christmas Crochet Patterns You Might Enjoy
If you’ve enjoyed making this mini crochet Christmas stocking pattern, then why not try a few more? Here’s a few other of my designs you might like:
- Easy mosaic crochet bauble – continue your love of mosaic crochet with this cute bauble
- Easy crochet stocking pattern – using the granny stitch.
- Christmas crochet gnome pattern – an adorable decoration to make
Congratulations on crocheting your very own crochet Christmas stocking ornament! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun project, why stop here? Dive into my other Christmas crochet patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.
Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨