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Making garments for kids can be quick, easy and fun and so today I’m excited to share with you the magic of crafting a simple granny stitch sweater for children. With its timeless charm and versatility, the Granny Stitch adds a touch of vintage yet modern twist to any project.
Our Child Granny Stitch Sweater pattern is designed to be not only adorable but also incredibly easy to make. From babyhood to age 10 to fit chest sizes 17 – 28 inches, this pattern offers sizes for every stage of childhood. Picture your little one wrapped in a rainbow of colourful yarn choices, each stitch filled with love and warmth.
This easy top-down crochet sweater for kids is a perfect opportunity to try out new skills while creating something truly special for your child (my son Oliver loves his!). So grab your hooks and let’s embark on a journey of creativity and fun together!
I don’t know if you’ve noticed but the granny stitch is getting a lot of attention at the moment in the crochet world and for good reason in my book! It’s a hugely versatile and adaptable stitch that not only lets you play with design but with colour as well.
I have been on a mission to create some new, innovative and modern crochet patterns using the stitch (traditionally classed as 3dc and a ch1 space) to share with you all.
So far I’ve created adult patterns of the granny stitch poncho and a granny square sweater. I also created a cute crochet granny hat pattern with sizes for all the family.
Not only is the granny stitch great for wearables but I went for it at Christmas and designed a festive granny stocking and even a cute bauble for your tree!
After lots of demand I decided to go for it and create a whole collection of child garment patterns and adult ones too (coming soon!).
So, whether you fancy making a child granny stitch cardigan, a sweater (that’s this one!) or a child crochet hoodie, you’ve come to the right place!
Things you’ll love about this kids crochet sweater pattern
Getting Started: Materials Needed for Your Kids Crochet Sweater
Sizing
Granny Stitch Sweater Sizes for Children: 0-6m (6-12m, 1-2 years, 3-4 years, 5-6 years, 7-8 years, 9-10 years)
To fit chest sizes: 17 (18, 21, 23, 25, 26, 28) inches.
With finished garment chest sizes: 17.5 (20.25, 23.25, 26.25, 26.25, 29, 32) inches.
Yarn
To make the cute granny sweater I used Hayfield Bonus DK from Sirdar which is 100% Acrylic, 306yds/280m/100g.
This is a great category 3 weight yarn that comes in 100 colours across ten trend-led themes so offers the most up to date colours for fashionable crochet projects. This soft, easy-care yarn is machine washable and perfect for all the family.
How much yarn do I need to crochet the sweater?
Sizes: 0-6m (6-12m, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10) will require approximately 266 (336, 420, 504, 560, 700, 798) metres, 291 (367, 460, 551, 612, 765, 872) yards of DK (Category 3 weight) yarn to crochet the sweater.
Yarn Substitutes
You can use any yarn that you like for your sweater bearing in mind that you need to make sure you meet the gauge. Some other great options are:
- Stylecraft Bambino 100% Acrylic, 293yds/268m/100g
- Color Theory by Lion Brand 100% Acrylic, 246yds/225m/100g
- Swish DK 100% fine super wash Merino wool, 123yds/112m/50g
Please note that the Color Theory is a category 4 weight but I found that it matched gauge (included with the written pattern below) really well and so if you have a lighter worsted weight yarn you’d like to try then go for it!
Other Materials
Along with your yarn, you will need the following:
- A 4.5mm/G crochet hook or hook size that meets the pattern gauge
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this fun granny stitch pattern to your Pinterest board!
Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Granny Stitch Sweater
Step by Step Video Tutorial
Come along as we dive into crafting the perfect baby granny stitch jumper (size 0-6 months) in our step-by-step video tutorial.
Included in the video tutorial:
We begin by from the top down, constructing the yoke of the sweater with incremental increases until we reach the point of sleeve separation. Then we focus on the body section, allowing you to customise the length of the sweater while shaping the body with strategic decreases under the arms. To achieve a smooth finish at the bottom, we’ll share a simple trick that you. might not expect!
Next up, we explore two easy options for sleeve length, making it a breeze to adjust. Finally, we’ll wrap it all up by adding the neck and bottom band! Let’s get crocheting!
Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know (including the Granny Stitch)
Glossary and Abbreviations
beg – beginning
blo – back loop only
ch(s) – chain(s)
ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
GC – Granny Cluster (3dc or 2dc)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
ss/sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Yoh – yarn over hook
Stitches
The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:
sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)
yo slst – yarn over slip stitch
dc – double crochet (UK tr – treble crochet)
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Special Stitches
Granny Cluster
The term Granny Cluster (GC) is used throughout the pattern in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc and 2dc throughout. This is where we will see the look of the traditional granny stitch.
Yo slst – Yarn over slip stitch
Yoh, insert your hook, yoh and pull through stitch and all loops on the hook.
Decrease Granny Cluster Stitch Over 2 Spaces (Cluster dec)
Dc in first ch1-sp, yoh, insert hook in the same ch1-sp and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and insert hook through next ch1-sp, pull up a loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, dc in same ch1-sp. This will create 1 group of stitches over 2 spaces from the previous round.
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)
This is only worked over chain spaces in this pattern: *Yoh, insert hook into next ch1-sp and pull up a loop. Yoh and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from *, yoh and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.
Stacked Double Crochet
A stacked double crochet is a great alternative to a turning chain that stacks 2 single crochet stitches on top of each other to reach the height of a double crochet.
Variations and Ideas: Making Your Kids Crochet Sweater Unique
Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.
The child Sweater is designed to have a slight amount of ease all over with tapered sleeves to a well fitted cuff.
The Sweater is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.
Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rounds of the Body after you split for the Arms. Continue working increases (points at the Front and Back) for as long as you would like your Sweater to be before continuing to work the ‘Straight Section’ of the Body. Keep in mind that you will be adding a Bottom Band that will also add length afterwards.
Bands and Cuffs: You can add or subtract a small amount from each size by working more or less stitches for your Bands and Cuffs.
Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few rounds of the sleeves as you like before adding the Cuffs.
Sleeve Shape: You can create a fuller Sleeve by continuing without decreasing if you would like to. You may then find that you need to slip stitch into more stitches when working the Cuff or drop down a hook size or two to make it fit well.
Neckline: If you would like a bigger opening for your neck on your Sweater you can work the beginning of the pattern in turned Rows rather than Rounds. You will then need to join and work in Rounds once the opening is the size you would like it to be.
There are lots of options discussed in the video tutorial so make sure to give it a watch before beginning your project.
Before you dive into crocheting your sweater, take a moment to read through the pattern notes—it’s a game-changer!
These handy insights will not only simplify your pattern-reading journey but also ensure a smoother crochet experience. You’ll find helpful tips on deciphering the sizing, transitioning yarn colours, and tips on turning your work. Trust me, a quick peek at these notes will set you up for crochet success!
- A ch1 at the beg does not count as a st.
- Work a stacked dc or ch3 at the beg of each Round as you prefer.
- The pattern is worked in turned rounds.
- The pattern assumes that you are using the same colour throughout so will instruct you to slip stitch into the first st at the end of each row or round, then ss into the appropriate ch-sp before turning to continue the next row or round.
- If you are changing colour at any point you need to break your yarn at the end of the Row or Round and then turn before rejoining your next colour into the appropriate ch-space between the Cluster Groups to begin the next Round.
- Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
- Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
- Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. 0-6 (6-12, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10).
- If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) means that the 0-6 month and 6-12 month sizes do not apply to this instruction.
- The Yokes are written in full using smaller groups with the smaller size given followed by the larger size in brackets. E.g. 1 (2) for 0-6 (6-12) sizes.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row.
- ‘Granny Cluster(s)’ in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc and 2dc throughout.
- The pattern used standard US crochet terms.
Colourful Choices: Customising Your Kids Crochet Sweater
The colour placement for my granny stripe sweater for children (I love stripy things and so do my boys!) were such fun to decide on! I created a theme and palette for each one that I made and enjoyed using the following colours of Hayfield Bonus DK in each of them:
- Sleeveless baby granny stitch sweater:
This simple baby pullover uses: Fields of Gold (666), Pearl Grey (615)
- Toddler size rainbow crochet sweater:
This bright, rainbow inspired sweater uses: Pearl Grey (615), Soft Red (617), Burnt Orange (647), Fields of Gold (666), Grass (825), Ocean Blue (609)
- Child size long sleeve vintage crochet sweater:
This colourful, retro sweater uses: Walnut (927), Fields of Gold (666), Ocean Blue (609), Pearl Grey (615), Auburn (581), Olive Green (634)
If choosing and planning colours is something you’d like to know more about then I’d love for you to join my Using Colour In Crochet Course – it’s designed to give you all the tools you need to choose and combine the perfect colours for every project you make!
Franny Granny Crochet Sweater for Kids Written Pattern
There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:
- View the free pattern on the blog – all blog subscribers will be able to view the patterns supported by ads.
- Purchase the individual pattern on Etsy or Ravelry as a beautifully formatted PDF with extra stitch charts, schematic and colour information page and more!
- Get the whole Franny Granny Children’s Collection and save money 🙂 Get all 3 designs together in beautiful
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Copyright Notice
The Franny Granny Stitch Child Sweater Crochet Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.
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1-2 yrs (3-4 yrs)
BOTH SIZES WORKED THE SAME TO ROUND 12.
GC = either a 3dc or 2dc
Foundation chain: ch 64, taking care not to twist, ss into 1st chain to form a ring.
Round 1: stacked dc in 1st ch, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * around, ss in 1st to join, turn. [16 Granny Clusters and ch-sps]
Round 2: shoulder increases: (note – work first dc of every Round as a stacked dc throughout pattern) ss into nearest ch1-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 3 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 3 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [20 GC and ch-sps (2 of which are ch2-sps from this round onwards)]
Round 3: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [24 GC and ch-sps]
Round 4: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [28 GC and ch-sps]
Round 5: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [30 GC and ch-sps]
Round 6: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [32 GC and ch-sps]
Round 7: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [36 GC and ch-sps]
Round 8: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [38 GC and ch-sps]
Round 9: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [40 GC and ch-sps]
Round 10: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 GC and ch-sps]
Round 11: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [46 GC and ch-sps]
Round 12: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [48 GC and ch-sps]
1-2 size Yoke ends here. Move to Split for Sleeves Section.
3-4 size Yoke continues.
Round 13: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [52 GC and ch-sps]
Round 14: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 25 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [54 GC and ch-sps]
Move to Split for Sleeves Section.
5-6 yrs (7-8 yrs)
BOTH SIZES WORKED THE SAME TO ROUND 15.
GC = either a 3dc or 2dc
Foundation chain: ch 72, taking care not to twist, ss into 1st chain to form a ring.
Round 1: stacked dc in 1st ch, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * around, ss in 1st to join, turn. [18 Granny Clusters and ch-sps]
Round 2: (note – work first dc of every Round as a stacked dc throughout pattern) ss into nearest ch1-sp, *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [20 GC and ch-sps (2 of which are ch2-sps from this round onwards)]
Round 3: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [24 GC and ch-sps]
Round 4: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [26 GC and ch-sps]
Round 5: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [28 GC and ch-sps]
Round 6: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [32 GC and ch-sps]
Round 7: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [34 GC and ch-sps]
Round 8: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [36 GC and ch-sps]
Round 9: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [40 GC and ch-sps]
Round 10: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [42 GC and ch-sps]
Round 11: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 GC and ch-sps]
Round 12: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [48 GC and ch-sps]
Round 13: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [50 GC and ch-sps]
Round 14: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 24 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [52 GC and ch-sps]
Round 15: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [56 GC and ch-sps]
5-6 size Yoke ends here. Move to Split for Sleeves Section.
7-8 size Yoke continues:
Round 16: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [60 GC and ch-sps]
Round 17: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 29 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [62 GC and ch-sps]
Move to Split for Sleeves Section.
9-10 yrs
GC = either a 3dc or 2dc
Foundation chain: ch 80, taking care not to twist, ss into 1st chain to form a ring.
Round 1: stacked dc in 1st ch, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * around, ss in 1st to join, turn. [20 Granny Clusters and ch-sps]
Round 2: shoulder increases: (note – work first dc of every Round as a stacked dc throughout pattern) ss into nearest ch1-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [24 GC and ch-sps (2 of which are ch2-sps from this round onwards)]
Round 3: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [28 GC and ch-sps]
Round 4: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [32 GC and ch-sps]
Round 5: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [34 GC and ch-sps]
Round 6: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [36 GC and ch-sps]
Round 7: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [40 GC and ch-sps]
Round 8: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 GC and ch-sps]
Round 9: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [46 GC and ch-sps]
Round 10: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [48 GC and ch-sps]
Round 11: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [52 GC and ch-sps]
Round 12: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 25 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [54 GC and ch-sps]
Round 13: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 26 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [56 GC and ch-sps]
Round 14: shoulder increases: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [60 GC and ch-sps]
Round 15: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 29 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [62 GC and ch-sps]
Round 16: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 30 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [64 GC and ch-sps]
Round 17: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 31 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [66 GC and ch-sps]
Round 18: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 32 times; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [68 GC and ch-sps]
Move to Split for Sleeves Section.
SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES
All sizes
Before beginning to split for sleeves, you need to join the chain 1 spaces together with stitch markers to make creating the armholes easier on the first Round of this section.
Counting from either ch2-sp, skip 5 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) ch1-sps. Place a stitch marker in the next ch1-sp. Skip the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) ch1-sps, join the same stitch marker into the next ch1-sp. This will create a space for the armhole. Repeat this on the other side of the sweater working from the next ch2-sp.
Round 1: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the stitch marker, 3dc in next ch1-sp, dc2tog over the ch1-sps joined by stitch marker, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [24 (28, 32, 36, 36, 40, 44) 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]
Sizes 3-4 and 7-8 continue to Flatten Bottom and Close Sides.
All other sizes continue.
Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc2tog, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc2tog of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next 3 GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [24 (28, 32, -, 36, -, 44) 3dc GC, 2dc]
If you would like your Sweater longer then you can continue to add Rounds here before flattening the bottom and closing the sides.
FLATTEN BOTTOM AND CLOSE SIDES
All sizes
We are now ready to flatten the bottom and close the sides of the Sweater. This is done one side at a time working in turned Rows between the ch2-sps at the Front and Back of the Sweater.
Continue with the yarn in the ch2-sp you have slip stitched into.
Row 1: stacked dc in ch2-sp, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in last ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in ch2-sp, turn. [10 (12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 20) 3dc GC, 3dc]
Row 2: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next 3 sts, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [8 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18) 3dc GC, 3dc]
Row 2 sets the decrease pattern for the Sweater side.
Repeat Row 2 until you have 4 3dc GC and 3dc.
Next Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [2 3dc GC, 3dc]
Last Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, dc in last dc. [3dc]
Break yarn. Join yarn to ch2-sp that has WS of previous row facing from where you split for sleeves.
Repeat the Flatten Bottom and Close Sides Section.
BOTTOM BAND
All sizes
Continuing with yarn from second side work the Bottom Band using a Join As You Go Method.
Turn to RS facing to begin and ch 7.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 5 chs, ss in side of next st of final Body round, turn. [6]
Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in side of next 2 sts of final Body round, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Bottom Band Cuff.
Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into the sides of all stitches of the Body.
Join the last row to the first row with a ss seam to join.
SLEEVES
All sizes
With WS facing, join yarn to ch1-sp nearest the armhole (this is a ch1-sp that doesn’t have any stitches in yet and isn’t joined for the armhole).
Make two matching Sleeves.
Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in dc2tog, dc in next ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) GC and ch-sps]
Round 2: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.
Rounds 3 to 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5): Repeat Round 2.
Decrease Round 5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6): Cluster dec over next 2 ch1-sps, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) GC and ch-sps]
Rounds 6 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) to 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10): Rep Round 2. [5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) GC and ch-sps]
Round 9 (9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11): Rep Decrease Round. [4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) GC and ch-sps]
Rounds 10 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12) to 11 (12, 12, 12, 15, 15, 15) : Rep Round 2. [4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) GC and ch-sps]
Sizes 0-6 month and 6-12 month: move onto Sleeve Cuff. All other sizes continue.
Round – (-, 13, 13, 16, 16, 16): Rep Decrease Round. [- (-, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) GC and ch-sps]
Rounds – (-, 14, 14, 17, 17, 17) to – (-, -, 17, 20, 22, 20): Rep Round 2. [- (-, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) GC and ch-sps]
Sizes 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 and 7-8: move onto Sleeve Cuff. Size 9-10 continue.
SIZE 9-10 ONLY:
Round 21: Rep Decrease Round. [8 GC and ch-sps]
Rounds 22- 24: Rep Round 2. [8 GC and ch-sps]
SLEEVE CUFFS
All sizes
Continuing with yarn from Sleeve work the Cuff using a Join As You Go Method.
Turn to RS facing to begin and ch 5.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 3 chs, ss in next st of final Sleeve round, turn. [4]
Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of final Sleeve round, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Sleeve Cuff.
Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into all stitches of the final Sleeve round.
Join the last row to the first row with a ss seam to join.
NECKBAND
All sizes
The Neck band is worked using a Join As You Go Method. With the Right Side of the Back of the Sweater facing you, join yarn to the 3rd st to the right of the centre ch1-sp of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke.
First side of Neckband
Row 1: ch1, sc in next 3 sts, sc in centre ch1-sp, ss in next st of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke, turn. [4]
Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the st before Front centre ch1-sp.
Next Row: join Front centre ch1-sp and next 3 sts to last Row with a ss seam, turn. Continue for second side of Neckband
Second Side of Neckband
Row 1: with WS facing, working back along first side of Neckband yo slst in end of 4 Rows, turn. [4]
Row 2: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke, turn.
Row 3: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you ss back into the centre ch1-sp at the Back of the Sweater.
Join with a ss seam to the first 4 rows of the First side of Neckband to finish.
Break yarn.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends and block to measurements.
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Inspiration: Kids Crochet Sweaters and Other Garments To Try
If you enjoy crocheting garments for little ones then you’ll love these too:
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- Herringbone Moss Sweater – a simple top down raglan style
- Button Up Baby Sweater – cute and packed with textured stitches
Congratulations on completing your Granny Stitch Child Sweater! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this adorable piece of coziness, why stop here? Dive into my other delightful child and baby patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.
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