Granny Square Sweater Crochet Pattern – modern and fun

I love creating unique crochet garment designs and this is my modern take on a granny square sweater pattern that has endless possibilities for you to personalise!

Not only is it made from the top down (so easy to try on as you go), it also has hardly any seams (just the top granny squares and you’re done!) and it also has options for long sleeves, short sleeves, cuffs and to make it any length you like. Fancy a go with me? I’d love to see your version!

In adult sizes from XS to 5XL (30″-62″ chest sizes) you can make this truly unique granny design that has a yoke made from traditional granny squares that then continues with the granny stitch in an innovative way to create a really trendy crochet sweater.

In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to crochet a granny square sweater including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.

Granny square patterns are everywhere at the moment!

I think there’s a few good reasons for this:

• They look amazing and are bang on trend
• They are super easy to crochet
• They lend themselves really well to colourful combinations and are easy to adjust!

I love creating granny square clothes and I’m excited to share this granny jumper with you. I also have a granny square cardigan pattern too!

So far I’ve created adult patterns of the granny stitch poncho and a simple granny square sweater.

I also created a cute crochet granny hat pattern with sizes for all the family.

For this design I chose to use a traditional granny square to make sure that the colour changes were the star of the show! The different sizes within the pattern have a slight variation in the amount of rounds but I find it only takes me about 20 minutes to make a granny square.

If you want to change colour in your square then you might find it takes you a little longer.

Once you have made enough squares and triangles for the yoke we then seam them together. I used a flat slip stitch seam for this but you can use whichever method you prefer! Here are some great ideas for joining crochet squares together you could try.

Round or V Neck Granny Square Sweater – you choose

There is one small change you need to make to transform your granny sweater from a V neck to a round neck (and vice versa) – just change the amount of half granny squares you use in the yoke!

In this design you also have the option to make the sweater any length you like by continuing to work body rounds until you are happy with the length.

You can crochet a long sleeved sweater with short or long cuffs. You can also leave the sleeves off completely to make a retro granny square tee look!

You’ll see the different options for sleeves, cuffs and necklines in my two versions I made.

The choice is yours and I can’t wait to see what you do.

How much yarn do I need to crochet the sweater?

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) will require approximately 1098 (1235, 1325, 1425, 1490) (1555, 1655, 1765, 1860) metres, 1200 (1350, 1450, 1560, 1630) (1700, 1810, 1930, 2030) yards of yarn to make the sweater.

Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this fun granny stitch pattern to your Pinterest board!

Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Granny Sweater

Included in the video tutorial:

We begin by creating a number of granny squares and triangles that we join together to form the sweater yoke.

From there we start to work using the granny stitch in turned rounds along the bottom edge of the yoke until we reach the point of sleeve separation.

Then we focus on the body section, allowing you to customise the length while shaping the body with strategic decreases under the arms.

Next up, we explore options for sleeve length, making it a breeze to adjust. Finally, we’ll wrap it all up by adding the neck and bottom band depending on the style you choose.

Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know (including the Granny Stitch)

Glossary and Abbreviations

beg – beginning

blo – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)

GC – Granny Cluster (3dc)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sp – space

ss/sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Yoh – yarn over hook

Stitches

The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:

sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)

yo slst – yarn over slip stitch

dc – double crochet (UK tr – treble crochet)

Special Stitches

Granny Cluster

The term Granny Cluster (GC) is used throughout the pattern in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc throughout. This is where we will see the look of the traditional granny stitch.

Yo slst – Yarn over slip stitch

Yoh, insert your hook, yoh and pull through stitch and all loops on the hook.

Decrease Granny Cluster Stitch Over 2 Spaces (Cluster dec)

Dc in first ch1-sp, yoh, insert hook in the same ch1-sp and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and insert hook through next ch1-sp, pull up a loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, dc in same ch1-sp. This will create 1 group of stitches over 2 spaces from the previous round.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

This is only worked over chain spaces in this pattern: *Yoh, insert hook into next ch1-sp and pull up a loop. Yoh and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from *, yoh and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.

Stacked Double Crochet

A stacked double crochet is a great alternative to a turning chain that stacks 2 single crochet stitches on top of each other to reach the height of a double crochet.

Variations and Ideas: Making Your Unique Granny Sweater

Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.

The sweater is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.

Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rounds of the Body after you split for the Arms. Continue working increases (points at the Front and Back) for as long as you would like your Sweater to be before continuing to work the ‘Straight Section’ of the Body. Keep in mind that you will be adding a Bottom Band that will also add length afterwards.

Bands and Cuffs: You can add or subtract a small amount from each size by working more or less stitches for your Bands and Cuffs.

Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few rounds of the Sleeves as you like before adding the Cuffs.

Sleeve Shape and Length: You can create a fuller Sleeve by continuing without decreasing if you would like to. You may then find that you need to slip stitch into more stitches when working the Cuff or drop down a hook size or two to make it fit well.

There are options for a full granny stitch Sleeve with a short cuff or a part granny stitch Sleeve with a long cuff included within the pattern.

There are lots of options discussed in the video tutorial so make sure to give it a watch before beginning your project.

• A ch1 at the beg does not count as a st.
• Work a stacked dc or ch3 at the beg of each Round as you prefer.
• The pattern is worked in turned rounds.
• The pattern assumes that you are using the same colour throughout so will instruct you to slip stitch into the first st at the end of each Row or Round, then ss into the appropriate ch-sp before turning to continue the next Row or Round.
• If you are changing colour at any point you need to break your yarn at the end of the Row or Round and then turn before rejoining your next colour into the appropriate ch-space between the Cluster Groups to begin the next Round.
• Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. XS (S, M, L, XL), (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
• If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) means that the XS and S sizes do not apply to this instruction.
• Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each Row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row.
• ‘Granny Cluster(s)’ in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc throughout.
• The pattern uses standard US crochet terms.

Here are the colours that I used for each of my versions:

• Short Sleeve with Long Cuffs and Round Neck (pink version) using Sirdar yarn:

This fun colourful version uses: Hayfield Bonus DK and Jewelspun in Oyster Pink and Golden Feldspar.

• Long Sleeved Sweater with V Neck using Paintbox Yarns Simply DK:

This simple but really effective version uses Paintbox Simply DK in Navy Night.

Copyright Notice

The Franny Granny Square Crochet Sweater Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.

This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd).

Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.

Pattern Support

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Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View

US Terminology

YOKE CONTINUED

With the amount of GC set around the yoke we can now continue to increase in a simple granny stitch pattern to get the yoke the correct size before splitting for sleeves.

If changing colour at any point, break yarn, turn, and join new colour to 1st ch2-sp.

If continuing in same colour ss to 1st ch2-sp and turn before continuing with next Round.

Round 1: as per set up Round above.

Round 2: ch1, *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) into ch2-sp, ch1, (3dc into each ch1-sp, ch1), to next ch2-sp; rep from * to end, ss in 1st st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [46 (46, 46, 58, 62) (62, 78, 78, 80) GC, 2 x ch2-sp]

Rounds 3-10 (11, 12, 12, 13) (14, 14, 15, 16): Repeat Round 2 increasing by two GC each round. [62 (64, 66, 78, 84) (86, 102, 104, 108)]

SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES

All Sizes

Before beginning to split for Sleeves, you need to mark the ch1-sps with stitch markers to make creating the armholes easier on the first Round of this section.

Counting from either ch2-sp, skip 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) (15, 17, 17, 18) ch1-sps. Place a stitch marker in the next ch1-sp.

Skip the next 10 (9, 8, 10, 11) (10, 14, 15, 15) ch1-sps, place another stitch marker into the next ch1-sp. This will create a space for the armhole. Repeat this on the other side of the sweater working from the next ch2-sp.

Round 1: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last ch1-sp before the stitch marker, 3dc in next ch1-sp (where the st marker is), ch 2 (8, 8, 8, 8) (14, 8, 14, 20) – for underarm extension, skip to ch1-sp with next stitch marker in, 3dc in ch1-sp with st marker in, ch1,skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) from next stitch marker to the next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 (48, 52, 60, 64) (68, 76, 76, 80) 3dc GC, 2 x underarm chains of 2 (8, 8, 8, 8) (14, 8, 14, 20)]

Size XS only:

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the underarm ch2, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc2tog over ch2, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes: – (S, M, L, XL) (-, 3XL, -, -)

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 8, 3dc in 1st ch, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [- (52, 56, 64, 68)(-, 80, -, -) 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes: – (-, -, -, -)(2XL, -, 4XL, -)

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 14, 3dc in 1st ch, ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [ – (-,-,-,-)(76,-,84, -) 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]

Size 5XL only:

Round 2: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 20, 3dc in 1st ch, (ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, (3dc in next ch, ch1, skip 2ch) twice, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [ – (-,-,-,-)(-,-,-,92) 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]

All Sizes:

Round 3: *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc2tog, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc2tog of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to next ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ss in 1st to join, ss to nearest ch2-sp, turn. [44 (52, 56, 64, 68)(76, 80, 84, 92) 3dc GC, 2dc]

Rounds 4-5: Repeat Round 3 to increase the length of the Sweater.

If you would like your Sweater longer then you can continue to add Rounds here before flattening the bottom and closing the sides.

FLATTEN BOTTOM AND CLOSE SIDES

All sizes

We are now ready to flatten the bottom and close the sides of the Sweater. This is done one side at a time working in turned Rows between the ch2-sps at the Front and Back of the Sweater.

Continue with the yarn in the ch2-sp you have slip stitched into.

Row 1: stacked dc in ch2-sp, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in last ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in ch2-sp, turn. [20 (24, 26, 30, 32) (36, 38, 40, 44) 3dc GC, 3dc]

Row 2: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [18 (22, 24, 28, 30)(34, 36, 38, 42) 3dc GC, 3dc]

Row 2 sets the decrease pattern for the Sweater side.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 4 3dc GC and 3dc.

Next Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [2 3dc GC, 3dc]

Last Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, dc in last dc. [3dc]

Break yarn. Join yarn to ch2-sp that has WS of previous row facing from where you split for sleeves.

Repeat the Flatten Bottom and Close Sides Section.

BOTTOM BAND

All sizes

Continuing with yarn from second side, work the Bottom Band using a Join As You Go Method.

Turn to RS facing to begin and ch13.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 11chs, ss in side of next st of final Body round, turn. [12]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in side of next 2 sts of final Body round, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Bottom Band Cuff.

Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into the sides of all stitches of the Body.

Join the last row to the first row with a ss seam to join.

SLEEVES

All sizes

With WS facing, join yarn to ch1-sp nearest the armhole (this is a ch1-sp that doesn’t have any stitches in yet and isn’t joined for the armhole).

Make two matching Sleeves.

Round 1 of the Sleeve differs for each size to ensure the correct number of GC are added to the armhole.

They will be written individually then from Round 2 onwards will be grouped again in the pattern.

Size XS:

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 11

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over ch2 of underarm extension, dc in next ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [11 GC and ch-sps]

Size S:

Armhole ch1-sps = 9

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 12

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 3ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [12 GC and ch-sps]

Size M:

Armhole ch1-sps = 8

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 13

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, 3dc in 1st ch of underarm extension, ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 3ch, 3dc in last ch of underarm extension, ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [13 GC and ch-sps]

Size L:

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 15

Round 1: As per Medium. [15 GC and ch-sps]

Size XL:

Armhole ch1-sps = 11

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 16

Round 1: As per Medium. [16 GC and ch-sps]

Size 2XL:

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 17

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, 3dc in 1st ch of underarm extension, (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, skip next 2ch, 3dc in last ch of underarm extension, ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [17 GC and ch-sps]

Size 3XL:

Armhole ch1-sps = 14

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 19

Round 1: As per Medium instructions. [19 GC and ch-sps]

Size 4XL:

Armhole ch1-sps = 15

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 20

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [20 GC and ch-sps]

Size 5XL:

Armhole ch1-sps = 15

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 22

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) three times, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch), ch1, skip next 2ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [22 GC and ch-sps]

SLEEVE BODY

All Sizes

The Sleeves can now be worked in any way that you would like. As pictured there are options for full granny stitch Sleeves with a short cuff, or half granny stitch Sleeves with a long cuff.

You need to be able to work a ‘straight’ round for the Sleeves (that keeps the stitch count the same) and a ‘decrease’ round that decreases your amount of Granny Clusters by 1 per round.

You can decrease your Sleeves at any point that you like using the decrease rounds.

The following uses standard measurements for a gently shaped and fitted full Sleeve with a short cuff but remember that you can try on your garment as you go to make sure that you decrease at the right pace for the perfect fit for you.

After completing Round 1 of the Sleeve for your size, we can now work the remaining rounds as follows:

Straight Round: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

Decrease Round: Cluster dec over next 2 ch1-sps, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

FULL GRANNY STITCH SLEEVE – DECREASE GUIDE

Work a total of 32 rounds for the sleeve before adding the Cuff.

Work a decrease on the following rounds:

XS Decrease Rounds: 7, 15, 23, 30

S Decrease Rounds: 7, 13, 21, 26, 30

M Decrease Rounds: 7, 13, 19, 24, 30

L Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 11, 16, 21, 26, 30

XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 11, 16, 21, 26, 30

2XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 14, 19, 23, 27, 30

3XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 17, 21, 24, 27, 30

4XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30

5XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 21, 23, 27, 29, 31

FULL GRANNY STITCH SLEEVE CUFFS

Continuing with yarn from Sleeve, work the Cuff using a Join As You Go Method.

Turn to RS facing to begin and ch 7.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 5chs, ss in next st of final Sleeve round, turn. [6]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2sts of final Sleeve round, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Sleeve Cuff.

Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into all stitches of the final Sleeve round.

Join the last row to the first row with a ss seam to join.

PART GRANNY STITCH SLEEVE WITH LONG CUFFS

If you would like to add long cuffs to your sleeves then work as for Sleeve Body until you reach just past your elbow. This should be around 15 rounds but you can adjust to suit you.

Adding a long sleeve cuff is very adaptable as you can join to as many or as few stitches around the sleeve opening to change the fit.

I have made suggestions for both a slim fitting and loose fitting cuff but the best idea is to try and see how you like it.

LONG SLEEVE CUFFS

Continuing with yarn from Sleeve work the Cuff using a Join As You Go Method.

Turn to RS facing to begin and ch46 (or the number of chains you would like your Cuff to be to reach your wrist).

SLIM FITTING CUFF:

Row 1: yo slst in 2nd ch from the hook, yo slst in remaining chs, ss in next 3sts of final Sleeve round, turn. [45]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, yo slst in blo of each st, ss in next 4sts of final Sleeve round, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Sleeve Cuff.

Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into all stitches of the final Sleeve round.

Join the last Row to the first Row with a ss seam to join.

LOOSE FITTING CUFF:

Work as for Slim Fitting Cuff but only ss into 3sts of final Sleeve round.

V SHAPE NECKBAND

The V Shape Neck band is worked using a Join As You Go Method. With the Right Side of the Back of the Sweater facing you, join yarn to the 3rd st to the right of the centre ch1-sp of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke.

First side of Neckband

Row 1: ch1, sc in next 3sts, sc in centre ch1-sp, ss in next st of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke, turn. [4]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2sts of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the st before Front centre ch1-sp.

Next Row: join Front centre ch1-sp and next 3sts to last Row with a ss seam, turn. Continue for second side of Neckband

Second Side of Neckband

Row 1: with WS facing, working back along first side of Neckband yo slst in end of 4 Rows, turn. [4]

Row 2: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2sts of Round 1 of Sweater Yoke, turn.

Row 3: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you ss back into the centre ch1-sp at the Back of the Sweater.

Join with a ss seam to the first 4 rows of the First side of Neckband to finish.

Break yarn.

ROUND SHAPE NECKBAND

We also use a Join As You Go Method here, turning at the end of each row.

This provides a tighter neckline that matches the long sleeve cuffs.

Join yarn to any stitch in line with a shoulder on neckline, ch6.

Row 1: yo slst in 2nd ch from hook and each to end, ss in next 2sts of neckline. [5]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st to end.

Row 3: ch1, yo slst in blo of each st to end, ss in next 2sts of neckline.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around the neckline.

Join the last row to the first row with a slip stitch seam to complete.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

Join HanJan and Share Your Crochet!

It’s an honour to be able to create and share my free crochet patterns with you. I’d love to stay connected and send you regular discount codes and free patterns! Please sign up for my subscriber list to get a free gift right now! 

I look forward to seeing your finished crochet projects, especially this easy crochet pattern, so please share them with me in the HanJan Crochet Facebook group or on Instagram and tag #hanjancrochet.

Inspiration: Other Crochet Sweater Patterns To Try

If you enjoy crocheting pullovers and sweaters then you’ll love these too:

• Deidra Sweater – a gorgeous knit look crochet sweater that seems to have cables!
• Spofforth Sweater – a simple and relaxed V neck sweater with collar.
• Florence Sweater – a transitional crochet sweater pattern with a luxurious texture

Congratulations on completing your Granny Square Sweater! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this adorable piece, why stop here? Dive into my other fun adult crochet garment patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.

Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨