Granny Stitch Cardigan Pattern for Summer or Winter

This granny stitch cardigan crochet pattern is truly a garment for all seasons! Go short sleeves with a simple edging in spring and summer! Or add long sleeves, a cozy rib and buttons for the colder months. Either way this is the perfect staple for your crochet wardrobe.

In adult sizes from XS to 5XL (30″-62″ chest sizes) you can create any length of cardigan you want and add optional sleeves (of any length) and finishing details to suit you.

In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to make this easy granny cardigan pattern, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.

Using the granny stitch for crochet clothes is such a fun and easy way to not only add colour (if you want to of course!) but also to add a beautiful drape to your work.

The delicate ch1 spaces between the granny clusters allows the fabric to flow and drape over your body perfectly and that’s why it’s so important to make sure to choose the right yarn for this project so that it isn’t too stiff!

Comfy Worsted is soft, machine washable, and lightweight yarn. Comfy is the ultimate solution for easy care and warm-weather projects.

The breathability and softness of natural Pima cotton allow for comfortable wearing, while the touch of acrylic microfiber adds just the right amount of elasticity. This worsted-weight cotton blend has superior wearability and longevity, which you are sure to appreciate over the years. Excellent stitch definition, too!

It’s a category 4, worsted weight yarn which gives a fabulous drape and feel to the top. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.

I used Parchment for my short sleeved cardigan.

My long sleeved granny cardigan was made using Sirdar Jewelspun in Northern Lights.

The beauty of this cardigan is that it uses just basic stitches, has a super easy construction (top down and seamless) and is quick to make too.

If you love the granny style like me then you’ll also enjoy some of my other designs that use it!

I have a granny stitch sweater and an adult crochet hoodie pattern that use this similar construction and stitches in adult sizes.

Then I also have matching patterns for children including a child granny stitch cardigan, sweater and hoodie 🙂

If you love all of the patterns then you might also love to join the Franny Granny Crochet Along for July and August 2024!

How much yarn do I need to crochet the cardigan?

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

This cardigan has been designed to let your colour imagination (and perhaps yarn stash) run free!

There are endless options for colour combinations that would work really well for the design and as you can see from some of the samples it can dramatically change how the finished cardigan appears.

The following yarn amounts are estimated as a total as the pattern is written assuming a single colour is used and long sleeves added.

If you are using more colours (and I encourage you to do so!) you’ll need to decide on the percentages of the colour that you’d like to use within the cardigan before purchasing yarn.

You will require approximately 1098 (1235, 1325, 1425, 1490) (1555, 1655, 1765, 1860) metres, 1200 (1350, 1450, 1560, 1630) (1700, 1810, 1930, 2035) yards of yarn to crochet the sweater.

This is 12, (13, 14, 15, 16) (16, 17, 18, 19) balls of the recommended yarn.

Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this top down granny stitch cardigan pattern to your Pinterest board!

Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Cardigan

Included in the video tutorial:

The cardigan is made from the top down in rows creating a Yoke with a point at the Front and Back. The Yoke is then split to create the Armholes and Body section.

The Body continues to work until the point of the Front and Back are at the desired length. The bottom of the cardigan is then decreased to make it level and the sides closed separately.

The Sleeves are then added by working around the Armhole space created when the Yoke was split.

TThe Neckband and Bottom Band are then added to complete.

Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know

Glossary and Abbreviations

beg – beginning

blo – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)

GC – Granny Cluster (3dc or 2dc)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sp – space

ss/sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Yoh – yarn over hook

Yo slst – yarn over slip stitch

Stitches

The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:

sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)

hdc – half double crochet (UK htr – half treble crochet)

dc – double crochet (UK tr – treble crochet)

Special Stitches

If you are new to working the granny stitch then why not try a starter project first? This easy granny stitch hat pattern is worked in rounds too and is a great place to practise those double crochet stitches.

Yo slst – Yarn over slip stitch

Yoh, insert your hook, yoh and pull through stitch and all loops on the hook.

Granny Cluster

The term Granny Cluster (GC) is used in the pattern in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc throughout. This is where we will see the look of the traditional granny stitch.

Stacked Double Crochet

A stacked double crochet is a great alternative to a turning chain that stacks 2 single crochet stitches on top of each other to reach the height of a double crochet.

Decrease Granny Cluster Stitch Over 2 Spaces (Cluster dec)

Dc in first ch1-sp, yoh, insert hook in the same ch1-sp and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and insert hook through next ch1-sp, pull up a loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, dc in same ch1-sp. This will create 1 group of stitches over 2 spaces from the previous round.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

This is only worked over chain spaces in this pattern: *Yoh, insert hook into next ch1-sp and pull up a loop. Yoh and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from *, yoh and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.

Making Your Crochet Granny Stitch Cardigan Perfect For You

Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.

The Cardigan is designed to have a slight amount of ease all over with tapered sleeves to a well fitted cuff.

The Cardigan is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.

Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rows of the Body after you split for the Sleeves. Continue working increases (at the Front and Back) for as long as you would like your Cardigan to be before continuing to work the ‘Straight Section’ of the Body. Keep in mind that you will be adding a Bottom Band that will also add length afterwards.

Bands and Cuffs: You can add or subtract a small amount from each size by working more or less stitches for your Bands and Cuffs.

Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few Rounds of the Sleeves as you like before adding the Cuffs.

Sleeve Shape and Length: You can create a fuller Sleeve by continuing without decreasing if you would like to. You may then find that you need to slip stitch into more stitches when working the Cuff or drop down a hook size or two to make it fit well.

There are options for a full granny stitch Sleeve with a short cuff or a sleeveless option with no cuff or a simple cuff edging by skipping the sleeve instructions entirely.

There are lots of options discussed in the video tutorial so make sure to give it a watch before beginning your project.

• A ch1 at the beg does not count as a st.
• Work a stacked dc or ch3 at the beg of each Row as you prefer.
• The pattern is worked in turned rounds and rows.
• The pattern assumes that you are using the same colour throughout so will instruct you to slip stitch into the first st at the end of each Row or Round, then ss into the appropriate ch-sp before turning to continue the next Row or Round.
• If you are changing colour at any point you need to break your yarn at the end of the Row or Round and then turn before rejoining your next colour into the appropriate ch-space between the Cluster Groups to begin the next Round.
• Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
• If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) means that the XS and S sizes do not apply to this instruction.
• Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row.
• ‘Granny Cluster(s)’ in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc and 2dc throughout.
• Make sure to check your gauge before beginning using the Gauge Swatch instructions to ensure the garment meets the desired measurements.

Copyright Notice

The Franny Granny Cardigan Crochet Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.

This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd).

Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.

Pattern Support

I am delighted to invite you to join the HanJan Crochet Community Facebook Group where we host all pattern support queries and love to see your progress, yarn choices and finished projects!

Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View

US Terminology

Sizes XL and 2XL only

Row 3: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [32 GC, 31 ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35 ch-sps]

Row 5: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39 ch-sps]

Rows 6-7: Repeat Row 3. [44 GC, 43 ch-sps]

Row 8: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [48 GC, 47 ch-sps]

Row 9: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [52 GC, 51 ch-sps]

Rows 10-11: Repeat Row 3. [56 GC, 55 ch-sps]

Row 12: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [60 GC, 59 ch-sps]

Rows 13-24: Repeat Row 3. [84 GC, 83 ch-sps]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section for Size XL. Continue for Size 2XL.

Size 2XL only

Row 25: Repeat Row 3. [86 GC, 85 ch-sps]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

Size 3XL only

Row 3: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35 ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39 ch-sps]

Row 5: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [42 GC, 41 ch-sps]

Row 6: Repeat Row 5. [44 GC, 43 ch-sps]

Row 7: shoulder increases: (3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [48 GC, 47 ch-sps]

Row 8: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [52 GC, 51 ch-sps]

Rows 9-10: Repeat Row 5. [56 GC, 55 ch-sps]

Row 11: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [60 GC, 59 ch-sps]

Row 12: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [64 GC, 63 ch-sps]

Rows 13-14: Repeat Row 5. [68 GC, 67 ch-sps]

Row 15: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [72 GC, 71 ch-sps]

Row 16: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [76 GC, 75 ch-sps]

Rows 17-18: Repeat Row 5. [80 GC, 79 ch-sps]

Row 19: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [84 GC, 83 ch-sps]

Row 20: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [88 G, 87 ch-sps]

Rows 21-22: Repeat Row 5. [92 GC, 91 ch-sps]

Row 23: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [96 GC, 95 ch-sps]

Rows 24-26: Repeat Row 5. [102 GC, 101 ch-sps at end of Row 26]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

Sizes 4XL and 5XL only

Row 3: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35 ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39 ch-sps]

Row 5: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 GC, 43 ch-sps]

Rows 6-7: Repeat Row 3. [48 GC, 47 ch-sps]

Row 8: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [52 GC, 51 ch-sps]

Row 9: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [56 GC, 55 ch-sps]

Rows 10-11: Repeat Row 3. [60 GC, 59 ch-sps]

Row 12: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [64 GC, 63 ch-sps]

Row 13: shoulder increases: *(3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [68 GC, 67 ch-sps]

Rows 14-15: Repeat Row 3. [72 GC, 71 ch-sps]

Row 16: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [76 GC, 75 ch-sps]

Row 17: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [80 GC, 79 ch-sps]

Rows 18-19: Repeat Row 3. [84 GC, 83 ch-sps]

Row 20: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [88 GC, 87 ch-sps]

Row 21: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [92 GC, 91 ch-sps]

Size 4XL only

Rows 22-27: Repeat Row 3. [104 GC, 103 ch-sps at end of Row 27]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

Size 5XL only

Rows 22-23: Repeat Row 3. [96 GC, 95 ch-sps]

Row 24: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [100 GC, 99 ch-sps]

Rows 25-28: Repeat Row 3. [108 GC, 107 ch-sps at end of Row 28]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES

All sizes

Before beginning to split for Sleeves, you need to mark the ch1-sps with stitch markers to make creating the armholes easier on the first Row of this section.

Counting from the first stitch of the Yoke, skip 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) (15, 17, 17, 18) ch1-sps. Place a stitch marker in the next ch1-sp.

Skip the next 10 (9, 8, 10, 11) (10, 14, 15, 15) ch1-sps, place another stitch marker into the next ch1-sp. This will create a space for the armhole. Repeat this on the other side of the cardigan working from the ch2-sp at the Back.

The premium PDF pattern includes instructional yoke diagrams.

Row 1: 3dc in 1st st, *ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last ch1-sp before the stitch marker, 3dc in next ch1-sp (where the st marker is), ch 2 (8, 8, 8, 8) (14, 8, 14, 20) – for underarm extension, skip to ch1-sp with next stitch marker in, 3dc in ch1-sp with st marker in, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) from stitch marker** to the ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 (48, 52, 60, 64) (68, 76, 76, 80) GC, 2 x underarm chains of 2 (8, 8, 8, 8) (14, 8, 14, 20)]

Size XS only

Row 2: 3dc in 1st st, *ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the underarm ch2, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc2tog over ch2, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)** to the ch2-sp,(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes: – (S, M, L, XL) (-, 3XL, -, -)

Row 2: 3dc in 1st st, *ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 8, 3dc in 1st ch, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)** to the ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [- (52, 56, 64, 68)(-, 80, -, -) GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes: – (-, -, -, -)(2XL, -, 4XL, -)

Row 2: 3dc in 1st st, *ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 14, 3dc in 1st ch, ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)** to the ch2-sp,(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [ – (-, -, -, -)(76, -, 84, -) GC, 2 dc2tog]

Size 5XL only:

Row 2: 3dc in 1st st, *ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the underarm chain of 20, 3dc in 1st ch, (ch1, skip 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, skip 2ch, dc2tog over next 2chs, skip 2ch, (3dc in next ch, ch1, skip 2ch) twice, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC)** to the ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [ – (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 92) GC, 2 dc2tog]

All Sizes:

Row 3: 3dc in 1st st, *ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc2tog, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc2tog of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next 3 GC)** to the ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 (52, 56, 64, 68)(76, 80, 84, 92) GC, 2dc]

Rows 4-5: Repeat Row 3 to increase the length of the Cardigan.

If you would like your Cardigan longer then you can continue to add Rows here before flattening the bottom and closing the sides.

FLATTEN BOTTOM AND CLOSE SIDES

All sizes

We are now ready to flatten the bottom and close the sides of the Cardigan. This is done one side at a time working in turned Rows between the first stitch at the Front and the ch2-sp at the Back of the Cardigan.

Continue with the yarn after turning at the end of the last Row.

Row 1: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next 2 sts, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in last ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in ch2-sp, turn. [20 (24, 26, 30, 32) (36, 38, 40, 44) GC, 3dc]

Row 2: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [18 (22, 24, 28, 30)(34, 36, 38, 42) GC, 3dc]

Row 2 sets the decrease pattern for the Cardigan side.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 4 3dc GC and 3dc.

Next Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [2 GC, 3dc]

Last Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, dc in last dc. [3dc]

Break yarn. Join yarn to ch2-sp that has WS of previous row facing from where you split for Sleeves.

Repeat the Flatten Bottom and Close Sides Section.

BOTTOM BAND AND NECK EDGE – SIMPLE EDGING

All Sizes

As shown in short sleeved version. With RS facing, join yarn to left hand bottom corner of Front.

Round 1: ch1, 2 yo slst in side of each dc around the Cardigan edge, 1 yo slst in any stitch or chain. Do not join or turn, work in continuous rounds now.

Round 2: hdc in 3rd loop of each st around, 2hdc in each corner (at bottom fronts and neck line points)

Round 3: yo slst in 3rd loop of each st around.

Break yarn and weave in ends.

You can work as many or as few rounds of Rounds 2 and 3 as you like.

BOTTOM BAND – TRADITIONAL RIB

If you would like to add a more traditional rib to your Cardigan then you can!

The Bottom Band is worked using a Join As You Go Method.

With RS facing, join to 1st st of the bottom edge to begin and ch13.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 11chs, ss in side of next st of final Body round, turn. [12]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in side of next 2 sts of final Body round, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Bottom Band Cuff.

Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into the sides of all stitches of the Body.

Continue with Neckband.

NECK BAND – TRADITIONAL RIB

All Sizes

The Neck Band continues with the same pattern repeat at the Bottom Band, using a Join As You Go Method around the whole of the neckline.

Continue with yarn, ch13.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 11chs, ss in side of next st of Front Opening, turn. [12]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in side of next 2 sts of Front Opening, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Neck Band Cuff.

BUTTON HOLES AND NECK BAND

Make buttonholes:

You can add buttonholes at any point around the neckline, on either side by using the following Buttonhole Row on any even row:

Buttonhole Row (even row): yo slst in blo of next 5 sts, ch2, skip 2 sts, yo slst in blo of next 5 sts, turn.

When planning out your buttonholes it’s a good idea to add stitch markers at the point you would like them before you start your Neck Band.

Once your Neck Band is complete, break your yarn.

SLEEVES

All Sizes

For a sleeveless version you do not need to work any further rounds. The last round of the Yoke becomes the edge of the sleeve.

To add Sleeves, with WS facing, join yarn to ch1-sp nearest the armhole (this is a ch1-sp that doesn’t have any stitches in yet and isn’t joined for the armhole).

Make two matching Sleeves.

Round 1 of the Sleeve differs for each size to ensure the correct number of GC are added to the armhole.

They will be written individually then from Round 2 onwards will be grouped again in the pattern.

Size: XS

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 11

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over ch2 of underarm extension, dc in next ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [11 GC and ch-sps]

Size: S

Armhole ch1-sps = 9

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 12

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 3ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [12 GC and ch-sps]

Size: M

Armhole ch1-sps = 8

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 13

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, 3dc in 1st ch of underarm extension, ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 3ch, 3dc in last ch of underarm extension, ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [13 GC and ch-sps]

Size: L

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 15

Round 1: As per Medium. [15 GC and ch-sps]

Size: XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 11

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 16

Round 1: As per Medium. [16 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 2XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 10

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 17

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, 3dc in 1st ch of underarm extension, (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, skip next 2ch, 3dc in last ch of underarm extension, ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [17 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 3XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 14

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 19

Round 1: As per Medium. [19 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 4XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 15

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 20

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) twice, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [20 GC and ch-sps]

Size: 5XL

Armhole ch1-sps = 15

Desired GC on Round 1 of Sleeve = 22

Round 1: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc2tog over same ch1-sp and 1st ch of underarm extension, dc in same 1st ch of underarm extension (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), (ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch) three times, ch1, skip 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1, skip next 2ch, dc in last ch of underarm extension, dc2tog over same ch1 of underarm extension and ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster) ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [22 GC and ch-sps]

SLEEVE BODY

All Sizes

As pictured there are options for full granny stitch sleeves with a simple cuff or a sleeveless option with no cuff.

For a sleeveless version you do not need to work any further rounds. The last round of the Yoke becomes the edge of the sleeve.

You need to be able to work a ‘straight’ round for the sleeves (that keeps the stitch count the same) and a ‘decrease’ round that decreases your amount of Granny Clusters by 1 per round.

You can decrease your sleeves at any point that you like using the decrease rounds.

The following uses standard measurements for a gently shaped and fitted full sleeve with a short cuff but remember that you can try on your garment as you go to make sure that you decrease at the right pace for the perfect fit for you.

After completing Round 1 of the Sleeve for your size, we can now work the remaining rounds as follows:

Straight Round: (stacked dc, 2dc) in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

Decrease Round: Cluster dec over next 2 ch1-sps, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

FULL GRANNY STITCH SLEEVE – DECREASE GUIDE

Work a total of 32 rounds for the sleeve before adding the Cuff.

Work a decrease on the following rounds:

XS Decrease Rounds: 7, 15, 23, 30

S Decrease Rounds: 7, 13, 21, 26, 30

M Decrease Rounds: 7, 13, 19, 24, 30

L Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 11, 16, 21, 26, 30

XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 11, 16, 21, 26, 30

2XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 14, 19, 23, 27, 30

3XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 17, 21, 24, 27, 30

4XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30

5XL Decrease Rounds: 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 21, 23, 27, 29, 31

Continue to Sleeve Cuff Edging.

SLEEVE CUFF EDGING (SIMPLE)

All sizes

With the RS of the Cardigan facing you, join yarn to stitch at underarm seam on Sleeve edge.

Round 1: ch1, 2 yo slst in side of each dc around the Sleeve edge. Do not join or turn, work in continuous rounds now.

Round 2: yo slst in 3rd loop of each st around.

You can work as many or as few rounds of the Sleeve Cuff Edging as you like.

SLEEVE CUFF (TRADITIONAL RIB)

Continuing with yarn from Sleeve, work the Cuff using a Join As You Go Method.

Turn to RS facing to begin and ch 7.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 5chs, ss in next st of final Sleeve round, turn. [6]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of final Sleeve round, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Sleeve Cuff.

Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into all stitches of the final Sleeve round.

Join the last row to the first row with a ss seam to join.

FINISHING

When you are happy with your garment, weave in all ends and block to measurements.

Make sure to check out these other stunning crochet cardigan patterns now you’re done too!

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Inspiration: Other Granny Stitch Patterns

If you enjoy crocheting all things granny stitch then you’ll love these too:

• Granny Square Crop Top – quick, fun and bang on trend.
• Granny Stitch Stocking – a bit of festive fun!
• Granny Square Bag Crochet Pattern – floral granny squares make up this beautiful tote.

Congratulations on completing your granny stitch cardigan! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this stunning piece, why stop here? Dive into my other fun adult crochet garment patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.

Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨