Creating a Kids Crochet Cardigan with the Classic Granny Stitch

Welcome to the world of vibrant crochet creations perfect for your little ones! Dive into the joy of crafting with my Kids Crochet Cardigan pattern, a modern and playful design that promises to bring a burst of colour to any wardrobe.

From our Franny Granny Collection, this intermediate-level pattern comes alive with options for customisation, allowing you to tailor the length, colour palette, and style to suit your child’s personality.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or eager to expand your skills, our accompanying video tutorial will guide you every step of the way. Let’s embark on this creative journey together, where stitches become stories and every finished piece is a celebration of whimsy and warmth!

In sizes new baby to age 10 years this great yarn stash busting project can be made for every little one you know.

I don’t know if you’ve noticed but the granny stitch is getting a lot of attention at the moment in the crochet world and for good reason in my book! It’s a hugely versatile and adaptable stitch that not only lets you play with design but with colour as well.

I have been on a mission to create some new, innovative and modern crochet patterns using the stitch (traditionally classed as 3dc and a ch1 space) to share with you all.

So far I’ve created adult patterns of the granny stitch poncho and a granny square sweater. I also created a cute crochet granny hat pattern with sizes for all the family.

Not only is the granny stitch great for wearables but I went for it at Christmas and designed a festive granny stocking and even a cute bauble for your tree!

After lots of demand I decided to go for it and create a whole collection of child garment patterns and adult ones too (coming soon!).

So, whether you fancy making a child granny stitch cardigan, a fun granny sweater or even a modern crochet hoodie using the stitch, you’ve come to the right place!

How much yarn do I need to crochet the cardigan?

Sizes: 0-6m (6-12m, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10) will require approximately 266 (336, 420, 504, 560, 700, 798) metres, 291 (367, 460, 551, 612, 765, 872) yards of DK (Category 3 weight) yarn to crochet the cardigan.

Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this fun granny stitch pattern to your Pinterest board!

Video Tutorial: Follow Along to Create Your Granny Stitch Cardigan

Included in the video tutorial:

We’ll kick things off from the top down, constructing the yoke with incremental increases until we reach the point of sleeve separation. Moving forward, we focus on the body section, allowing you to customise the length to your heart’s content while shaping the body with strategic decreases under the arms. To achieve a smooth finish at the bottom, we’ll share a simple trick.

Next up, we explore two easy options for sleeve length, making it a breeze to adjust. Finally, we’ll wrap it all up by adding the neck and bottom band, and if you fancy, we’ll guide you through sewing on buttons for that extra touch! Let’s get crocheting!

Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know (including the Granny Stitch)

Glossary and Abbreviations

beg – beginning

blo – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)

GC – Granny Cluster (3dc or 2dc)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sp – space

ss/sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Yoh – yarn over hook

Stitches

The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:

sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)

yo slst – yarn over slip stitch

dc – double crochet (UK tr – treble crochet)

Special Stitches

Granny Cluster

The term Granny Cluster (GC) is used throughout the pattern in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc and 2dc throughout. This is where we will see the look of the traditional granny stitch.

Yo slst – Yarn over slip stitch

Yoh, insert your hook, yoh and pull through stitch and all loops on the hook.

Decrease Granny Cluster Stitch Over 2 Spaces (Cluster dec)

Dc in first ch1-sp, yoh, insert hook in the same ch1-sp and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and insert hook through next ch1-sp, pull up a loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, dc in same ch1-sp. This will create 1 group of stitches over 2 spaces from the previous round.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

This is only worked over chain spaces in this pattern: *Yoh, insert hook into next ch1-sp and pull up a loop. Yoh and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from *, yoh and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.

Stacked Double Crochet

A stacked double crochet is a great alternative to a turning chain that stacks 2 single crochet stitches on top of each other to reach the height of a double crochet.

Variations and Ideas: Making Your Kids Crochet Cardigan Unique

Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.

The child cardigan is designed to have a slight amount of ease all over with tapered sleeves to a well fitted cuff.

The cardigan is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.

Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rows of the Body after you split for the Arms. Continue working increases (GC at the Front and Back) for as long as you would like your cardigan to be before continuing to work the ‘Straight Section’ of the Body. Keep in mind that you will be adding a Bottom Band that will also add length afterwards.

Bands and Cuffs: You can add or subtract a small amount from each size by working more or less stitches for your Bands and Cuffs.

Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few rounds of the Sleeves as you like before adding the Cuffs.

Sleeve Shape: You can create a fuller Sleeve by continuing without decreasing if you would like to. You may then find that you need to slip stitch into more stitches when working the Cuff or drop down a hook size or two to make it fit well.

Rolled Collar/Neckband: If you would like a rolled collar then you’ll need to work your collar with the WS facing rather than the RS as written in the pattern. Work as many stitches as you like for the depth you want it to be.

There are lots of options discussed in the video tutorial so make sure to give it a watch before beginning your project.

• A ch1 at the beg does not count as a st.
• Work a stacked dc or ch3 at the beg of each Row as you prefer.
• The pattern is worked in turned rows.
• The pattern assumes that you are using the same colour throughout so on the sleeves, it will instruct you to ss into the first st at the end of each Round, then ss into the appropriate ch-sp before turning to continue the next Round.
• If you are changing colour at the end of a Row, make sure to do it on the last yarn over and pull through of the Row.
• Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. 0-6 (6-12, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10).
• If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) means that the 0-6 month and 6-12 month sizes do not apply to this instruction.
• The Yokes are written in full using smaller groups with the smaller size given followed by the larger size in brackets. E.g. 1 (2) for 0-6 (6-12) sizes.
• Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each Row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row.
• ‘Granny Cluster(s)’ in the stitch counts and instructions refer to sets of 3dc and 2dc throughout.
• If changing colour on a Round, turn before re-joining your next colour into the appropriate ch-space between the Cluster Groups to begin the next Round.
• The pattern used standard US crochet terms.

Copyright Notice

The Granny Stitch Child Cardigan Crochet Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.

This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd).

Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.

Pattern Support

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US Terminology

1-2 yrs (3-4 yrs)

BOTH SIZES WORKED THE SAME TO ROUND 12.

GC = either a 3dc or 2dc

Foundation chain: ch 64.

Row 1: stacked dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * across to last 3chs, dc in last 3chs, turn. [16 Granny Clusters, 15ch-sps]

Row 2: shoulder increases: (note – work first dc of every Row as a stacked dc throughout pattern) 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 3 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 3 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [20 GC, 19ch-sps, (1 of which is a ch2-sp from this row onwards)]

Row 3: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [24 GC, 23ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [28 GC, 27ch-sps]

Row 5: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [30 GC, 29ch-sps]

Row 6: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 14 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [32 GC, 31ch-sps]

Row 7: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 7 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35ch-sps]

Row 8: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 17 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [38 GC, 37ch-sps]

Row 9: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 18 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39ch-sps]

Row 10: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 GC, 43ch-sps]

Row 11: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [46 GC, 45ch-sps]

Row 12: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [48 GC, 47ch-sps]

1-2 size Yoke ends here. Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

3-4 size Yoke continues:

Row 13: shoulder increases: (stacked dc, 2dc) in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [52 GC, 51ch-sps]

Row 14: (stacked dc, 2dc) in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 25 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 25 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [54 GC, 53ch-sps]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

5-6 yrs (7-8 yrs)

BOTH SIZES WORKED THE SAME TO ROUND 15.

GC = either a 3dc or 2dc

Foundation chain: ch 72.

Row 1: stacked dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * across to last 3chs, dc in last 3chs, turn. [18 Granny Clusters, 17ch-sps]

Row 2: (note – work first dc of every Row as a stacked dc throughout pattern) 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [20 GC, 19ch-sps (1 of which is a ch2-sp from this row onwards)]

Row 3: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [24 GC, 23ch-sps]

Row 4: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [26 GC, 25ch-sps]

Row 5: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [28 GC, 27ch-sps]

Row 6: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [32 GC, 31ch-sps]

Row 7: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [34 GC, 33ch-sps]

Row 8: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35ch-sps]

Row 9: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39ch-sps]

Row 10: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 19 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [42 GC, 41ch-sps]

Row 11: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 20 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 GC, 43ch-sps]

Row 12: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 10 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [48 GC, 47ch-sps]

Row 13: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 23 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [50 GC, 49ch-sps]

Row 14: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 24 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 24 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [52 GC, 51ch-sps]

Row 15: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 12 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [56 GC, 55ch-sps]

5-6 size Yoke ends here. Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

7-8 size Yoke continues:

Row 16: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [60 GC, 59ch-sps]

Row 17: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 29 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 29 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [62 GC, 61ch-sps]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

9-10 yrs

GC = either a 3dc or 2dc

Foundation chain: ch 80.

Row 1: stacked dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2chs, ch1, skip next ch, *dc in next 3chs, ch1, skip next ch; rep from * across to last 3chs, dc in last 3chs, turn. [20 Granny Clusters, 19ch-sps]

Row 2: shoulder increases: (note – work first dc of every Row as a stacked dc throughout pattern) 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 4 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [24 GC, 23ch-sps, (1 of which is a ch2-sp from this row onwards)]

Row 3: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 5 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [28 GC, 27ch-sps]

Row 4: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 6 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [32 GC, 31ch-sps]

Row 5: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 15 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [34 GC, 33ch-sps]

Row 6: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 16 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [36 GC, 35ch-sps]

Row 7: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 8 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [40 GC, 39ch-sps]

Row 8: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 9 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [44 GC, 43ch-sps]

Row 9: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 21 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [46 GC, 45ch-sps]

Row 10: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 22 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [48 GC, 47ch-sps]

Row 11: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 11 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [52 GC, 51ch-sps]

Row 12: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 25 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 25 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [54 GC, 53ch-sps]

Row 13: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 26 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 26 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [56 GC, 55ch-sps]

Row 14: shoulder increases: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 13 times**, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp; rep from * once more, ending at **, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [60 GC, 59ch-sps]

Row 15: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 29 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 29 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [62 GC, 61ch-sps]

Row 16: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 30 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 30 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [64 GC, 63ch-sps]

Row 17: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 31 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 31 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [66 GC, 65ch-sps]

Row 18: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 32 times, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) 32 times, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [68 GC, 67ch-sps]

Move to Split for Sleeves Section.

SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES

All sizes

Before beginning to split for sleeves, you need to join the chain 1 spaces together with stitch markers to make creating the armholes easier on the first Row of this section.

Having turned the last row of the Yoke, skip 5 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) ch-1 sps. Place a stitch marker in the next ch1-sp. Skip the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) ch1-sps, join the same stitch marker into the next ch1-sp. This will create a space for the first armhole.

To mark the second armhole count from the ch2-sp at the back of the Yoke; skip 5 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) ch-1 sps. Place a stitch marker in the next ch1-sp. Skip the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) ch1-sps, join the same stitch marker into the next ch1-sp.

Row 1: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the stitch marker, 3dc in next ch1-sp, dc2tog over the ch1-sps joined by stitch marker, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last but one ch1-sp before the stitch marker, 3dc in next ch1-sp, dc2tog over the ch1-sps joined by stitch marker, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [24 (28, 32, 36, 36, 40, 44) 3dc GC, 2 dc2tog]

Sizes 3-4 and 7-8 continue to Flatten Bottom and Close Sides.

All other sizes continue.

Row 2: 3dc in 1st st, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc2tog, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc2tog of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next 3 GC) to ch2-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc2tog, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc2tog of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next 3 GC) to last GC, 3dc in last st of final GC, turn. [24 (28, 32, -, 36, -, 44) 3dc GC, 2dc]

If you would like your Cardigan longer then you can continue to add Rows here before flattening the bottom and closing the sides.

FLATTEN BOTTOM AND CLOSE SIDES

All sizes

We are now ready to flatten the bottom and close the sides of the Cardigan. This is done one side at a time working in turned Rows between the Front and Back of the Cardigan.

Continue with the yarn after turning at the end of the last Row.

Row 1: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next 2 sts, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in last ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in ch2-sp, turn. [10 (12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 20) 3dc GC, 3dc]

Row 2: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last but one ch1-sp before the dc, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to last but one ch1-sp, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [8 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18) 3dc GC, 3dc]

Row 2 sets the decrease pattern for the cardigan side.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 4 3dc GC and 3dc.

Next Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, 3dc in next ch1-sp, skip next GC, dc in last dc, turn. [2 3dc GC, 3dc]

Last Row: stacked dc in 1st dc, skip next GC, dc in dc of previous round, skip next GC, dc in last dc. [3dc]

Break yarn.

Join yarn to the ch2-sp and repeat the Flatten Bottom and Close Sides Section.

NECK AND BOTTOM BAND

All sizes

The Neck and Bottom Band are worked using a Join As You Go Method.

Begin with the Neck by joining with the RS facing to the bottom left hand stitch of the Front.

The pattern is written to place the buttonholes on the left of the cardigan. If you would like yours on the right, work the buttonhole rows as you begin the Neck Band on the right hand side instead.

Foundation chain: ch5.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 3 chs, ss in side of next dc of Body (working upwards towards Neck), turn. [4]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, 2ss in side of next dc of Body, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Neck Band.

Repeat the pattern until you reach the first st of Row 1 of the Yoke.

Continue to work the pattern ss into 2 sts of the Yoke foundation chain until you reach the last st of Row 1 of the Yoke.

Make buttonholes:

Continue with the pattern joining to the sts on the right hand Front using a Buttonhole Row every 4th row (or where desired on a yo slst row)

Buttonhole Row (even Row): yo slst in blo of 1st st, ch1, skip 1, yo slst in blo of next 2 sts, turn.

Make sure to end with a WS row at the last st of the Front before continuing with the Bottom Band.

To begin Bottom Band ch7.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 5 chs, ss in side of next st of Neck Band, turn. [6]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in side of next 2 sts of Neck Band (or Body), turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Bottom Band Cuff. Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into the sides of all stitches of the Body and other side of the Neck Band.

Break yarn. Weave in all ends. Sew buttons in place.

SLEEVES

All sizes

With WS facing, join yarn to ch1-sp nearest the armhole (this is a ch1-sp that doesn’t have any stitches in yet and isn’t joined for the armhole). Make two matching Sleeves.

Round 1: 3dc in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, (3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) to the last empty ch1-sp of armhole, dc in ch1-sp joined for armhole, dc in dc2tog, dc in next ch1-sp joined for armhole (these 3dc now count as a Granny Cluster), ch1, skip next GC, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) GC and ch-sps]

Round 2: 3dc in ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn.

Rounds 3 to 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5): Repeat Round 2.

Decrease Round 5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6): Cluster dec over next 2 ch1-sps, ch1, skip next GC, *(3dc in next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next GC) rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join, turn. [5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 6 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) to 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10): Rep Round 2. [5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) GC and ch-sps]

Round 9 (9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11): Rep Decrease Round. [4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 10 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12) to 11 (12, 12, 12, 15, 15, 15) : Rep Round 2. [4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) GC and ch-sps]

Sizes 0-6 month and 6-12 month: move onto Sleeve Cuff. All other sizes continue.

Round – (-, 13, 13, 16, 16, 16): Rep Decrease Round. [- (-, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) GC and ch-sps]

Rounds – (-, 14, 14, 17, 17, 17) to – (-, -, 17, 20, 22, 20): Rep Round 2. [- (-, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) GC and ch-sps]

Sizes 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 and 7-8: move onto Sleeve Cuff. Size 9-10 continue.

SIZE 9-10 ONLY:

Round 21: Rep Decrease Round. [8 GC and ch-sps]

Rounds 22- 24: Rep Round 2. [8 GC and ch-sps]

SLEEVE CUFFS

All sizes

Continuing with yarn from Sleeve work the Cuff using a Join As You Go Method. Turn to RS facing to begin and ch 5.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 3 chs, ss in next st of final Sleeve round, turn. [4]

Row 2: yo slst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of final Sleeve round, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the pattern for the Sleeve Cuff. Repeat the pattern around until you have worked into all stitches of the final Sleeve round.

Join the last row to the first row with a ss seam to join.

Finishing

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

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Inspiration: Kids Crochet Cardigans and Other Garments To Try

If you enjoy crocheting garments for little ones then you’ll love these too:

• Harris Sweater and Cardigan – a timeless classic using beginner stitches
• Herringbone Moss Sweater – a simple top down raglan style
• Button Up Baby Sweater – cute and packed with textured stitches

Congratulations on completing your Granny Stitch Child Cardigan! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this adorable piece of coziness, why stop here? Dive into my other delightful child and baby patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.

Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨