Men’s Crochet Sweater Pattern (women’s sizing too!)

It has been a dream of mine for a while now to create a men’s crochet sweater pattern and I’m super excited to be able to share it with you now!

This versatile crochet sweater pattern is actually designed for both men and women, featuring a stylish top-down raglan construction with classic, clean lines that make it a perfect wardrobe staple for any season. 

With size adjustments from XS to 5XL, it ensures a comfortable, flattering fit for all body types. 

In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to make this men’s crochet sweater pattern, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.

I haven’t designed a garment for men before, and this was definitely a different experience. The concept for this sweater has been in the pipeline for over two years though! I designed the matching crochet sweater pattern for boys and girls first and always intended to release an adult one too!

Now that it’s here, I absolutely love it, and can’t wait to make more sweater patterns for men.

Not forgetting the women of course! This pattern includes sleeves in women lengths too, and it is fully customisable, so you can make his and hers sweaters like I have!

I now have quite a selection of different styles of women’s Adult Crochet Sweater Patterns.

Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK is a 100% acrylic fiber that is specially formulated to reduce the formation of pills over time. As it is made with fibers that resist pilling, it will last longer, look newer, and feel softer. This yarn is ideal for apparel and home décors projects like afghans, baby clothing, sweaters, and baby blankets.

It’s a category 3, light weight yarn which gives a lovely drape to the sweater. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.

I used Khaki for the men’s version but there are over 50 colours to choose from in the range so don’t be shy!

For the one I am wearing, I used Capra DK in Tansy Heather.

Many people can be a bit nervous about making a raglan sweater, because it looks like it’s going to be really complicated, but it’s honestly not!

A raglan sweater begins from the neckline and you increase at four points to create the yoke (the different texture you see here at the top of the sweater) then you magically start to just work the body without any joining or seaming.

How much yarn do I need to crochet a raglan sweater?

This sweater is designed with between 2.75″-3.5″ of ease and is tailored to a male figure. It is however really easy to adjust the length of the sweater and sleeves to fit any body type beautifully.

There are numerous options for adding length to the sweater body, cuff and sleeves to make it perfect for you but make sure to order plenty of yarn if you are making adjustments to the pattern.

The following yarn amounts are estimated as a total as the pattern is written assuming a single colour is used, with the longer sleeve option in the pattern.

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

You will require approximately 1440 (1620, 1800, 1980, 2250) (2520, 2790, 3060, 3420) metres, 1575 (1770, 1970, 2165, 2460) (2760, 3050, 3345, 3740) yards of yarn to crochet the sweater.

This is 6 (7, 8, 9, 9) (11, 12, 13, 14) balls of the recommended yarn.

Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this men’s crochet sweater pattern to your crochet Pinterest board!

• The Sweater is made from the top down creating a Raglan Yoke to begin in the round.
• Once the Raglan Yoke is complete, we split for the sleeves by adding an Underarm Chain and Short Back Row.
• The Body is then worked in rounds to the desired length.
• With the Body complete we add a Bottom Rib to the length of your choice.
• Next we add the Neck Band in a Join As You Go Method.
• The Sleeves are added in the round to each armhole.
• The sweater is completed with a Sleeve Cuff to each arm.

Crochet Terms You’ll Need to Know

Glossary and Abbreviations

beg – beginning

blo – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)

flo – front loop only

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sp – space

ss/sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Yoh – yarn over hook

Stitches

The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:

sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)

hdc – half double crochet (UK htr – half treble crochet)

Special Stitches

I love using different textures in crochet and am really pleased with the combination of stitches in this pattern!

It uses both the herringbone half double crochet stitch and the back loop only herringbone half double crochet moss stitch – a mouthful I know, but easy once you get the hang of it!

I love this stitch so much that I’ve also used it on my crochet sweater pattern for boys, as well as this herringbone crochet backpack pattern.

Or how about some cute accessories? My free crochet winter hat pattern, my free crochet headband pattern, and my moss stitch crochet mittens pattern are such fun and makes great gifts too 🙂

Herringbone half double crochet: Hhdc

Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Pull first loop straight through the second loop (similar to a slip stitch to leave 2 loops on the hook). Yarn over, pull through two remaining loops on hook.

The Hhdc is used in Raglan Section.

Back loop only herringbone half double crochet moss stitch: Hhdc-moss

Work as for Hhdc but insert hook into back loop only of unworked stitch 2 rounds below. Work over the chain 1 space on the previous round.

The Hhdc-moss is used in the Body and Sleeves.

Back loop only herringbone half double crochet moss stitch 2 together : Hhdc-moss2tog

Yarn over, insert hook into back loop only of next stitch 2 rounds below (working over the ch1 on round below), yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Pull first loop straight through the second loop (similar to a slip stitch to leave 2 loops on the hook). Yarn over, skip next st on previous round, insert hook into back loop only of next stitch 2 rounds below (working over the ch1 on round below), yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Pull first loop straight through the second loop (similar to a slip stitch to leave 3 loops on the hook). Yarn over, pull through three remaining loops on hook.

blo – back loop only

To work the back loop only, turn your work so that the top is facing you to see the front and back loops. Work into the back loop by inserting the hook into the loop furthest from you.

Foundation half double crochet (Fhdc)

Step 1: Ch2, yarn over, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all three loops to complete the first Fhdc.

Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Yarn over, insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 3 loops on hook]

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through all three loops to complete the next Fhdc.

Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.

Yarn Over Slip Stitch: yoslst

Yoh, insert your hook, yoh and pull through stitch and all loops on the hook.

Making Your Raglan Crochet Sweater Perfect For You

Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.

The Sweater is designed to have between 2.75″-3.5″ of positive ease all over with gently tapered sleeves. The garment is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.

LENGTH

Main Body Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rounds of the Body using the Herringbone Moss Stitch.

Bottom Rib: you can adjust the Bottom Rib length by working more or less stitches in the Join as You Go Method.

If you change either of these lengths then please be mindful that your finished sweater will have different proportions to the ones shown.

SLEEVES

Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few rounds of the Herringbone Moss Stitch. Make sure to work a matching number of rounds for each sleeve.

NECK BAND

You can make your Neck Band any length you like by working more or less chains on the Foundation Chain.

For a tighter Neckband work all stitches as slip stitches in the back loop only.

For a regular Neckband work as detailed in the pattern.

• A ch1 at the beginning of a round does not count as st.
• A ch2 at the beginning of a round counts as a ch1-sp in stitch count.
• Do not turn at the end of each round.
• Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
• If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) means that the XS and S sizes do not apply to this instruction.
• Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each Row or Round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row or Round.

Free Men’s Crochet Sweater Pattern (Women’s Sizing too!)

There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:

Copyright Notice

The Herringbone Moss Adult Sweater Crochet Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.

This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd). 

Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.

Pattern Support

I am delighted to invite you to join the HanJan Crochet Community Facebook Group where we host all pattern support queries and love to see your progress, yarn choices and finished projects! 

Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View

US Terminology

SPLIT FOR SLEEVES AND SHORT BACK ROW

All Sizes

On the last round of the yoke, slip stitch into first stitch to join and break yarn.

Join yarn with RS facing to the 1st ch1-sp before where you have just joined the round. This will be the ch1-sp that you most recently created.

Sizing is now as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Row 1: ch 2 (2, 4, 6, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10), skip the next 56 (62, 68, 72, 76) (82, 84, 90, 96) sts (first sleeve), Hhdc in next ch1-sp, Hhdc in next 72 (80, 88, 94, 100) (108, 118, 126, 135) sts, Hhdc in next ch1-sp, ch 2 (2, 4, 6, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10), skip the next 56 (62, 68, 72, 76) (82, 84, 90, 96) sts (second sleeve), ss in next ch1-sp. [74 (82, 90, 96, 102) (110, 120, 128, 137) Hhdc, 2 x 2 (2, 4, 6, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10) underarm chains] Break yarn.

Suggestion – try the yoke on now to see how it fits and feels. Make sure that the Short Back Row is at the back when you try it on. You can block to measurements now if needed.

HHDC BODY SETUP

All Sizes

With RS facing, join yarn to 1st underarm chain before the Short Back Row.

Round 1: ch1, Hhdc in next 2 (2, 4, 6, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10)chs, Hhdc in next 74 (82, 90, 96, 102) (110, 120, 128, 137) sts (of Short Back Row), Hhdc in next 2 (2, 4, 6, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10)chs, Hhdc in next 72 (80, 88, 94, 100) (108, 118, 126, 135) sts (of last round of Raglan which is the Front). [150 (166, 186, 202, 222) (238, 258, 274, 292)] Work in continuous rounds now.

Round 2: Hhdc in each st around.

Round 3: Rep Round 2.

Suggestion – try the sweater on again to see if you would like your Herringbone stitch section to continue further or not. You can work as many repeats of Round 2 as you like before moving to the Herringbone Moss Body Section. If you do work more rounds here you will need to work less rounds of the Herringbone Moss Body Section than suggested below.

HERRINGBONE MOSS BODY SECTION

All Sizes

When you are ready to begin the Herringbone Moss Body Section, ss in 1st st of last round to join and begin working in joined rounds from now on.

Round 1: ch1, *Hhdc in next st, ch1, skip next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st to join. [150 (166, 186, 202, 222) (238, 258, 274, 292)]

Round 2: ch2 (counts as ch1-sp), Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp, *ch1, skip next st, Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp; rep from * around, ss in 1st ch of beginning ch2 to join.

Round 3: ch1, Hhdc-moss in skipped st below ch1-sp, ch1, skip next st, *Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp, ch1, skip next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st Hhdc-moss to join.

Round 4: Rep Round 2

Rounds 3 and 4 create the Set Pattern for the Main Body Section.

Rounds 5- 56 (56, 56, 66, 70) (70, 74, 74, 74): Repeat the Set Pattern for the Main Body Section.

Suggestion – if you would like to add or take away length then you can do so here. Work as many or as few repeats of the Set Pattern until you are happy with the length before adding the Bottom Rib (suggested 2.5”)

Round 57 (57, 57, 67, 71) (71, 75, 75, 75): ch1, Hhdc-moss in skipped st below ch1-sp, sc in next st, *Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st Hhdc-moss to join. Continue to Bottom Rib.

BOTTOM RIB

All Sizes

The Bottom Rib is worked in rows and joined as you work to the stitches of the last round of the Main Body Section. This is a Join As You Go technique.

Without breaking your yarn, continue from the last st of the final round of the Herringbone Moss Body Section.

Foundation chain: with RS facing, ch 15 (all sizes).

Row 1: yoslst in 2nd chain from hook and next 13 chains, ss into next st of final round of Main Body Section, turn. [14]

Row 2: yoslst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, yoslst in blo of each st, ss into next 2 sts of final round of Herringbone Moss Body Section, turn.

Rows 2 and 3 create the Bottom Rib Set Pattern

Repeat the Bottom Rib Set Pattern around.

Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete the Bottom Rib.

Fasten off and weave in end.

NECK BAND

All Sizes

The Neck Band is also worked using the Join As you Go Method to the stitches of the first round of the Raglan.

For a tighter Neckband you can work all stitches as slip stitches rather than including yoslst.

For a standard Neckband work as follows:

With RS facing, join yarn to a shoulder stitch at the Back of the sweater (to ensure that the seam is at the back of the neckline).

Foundation chain: ch 7 (all sizes but adjust as you would like).

Row 1: ss in 2nd chain from hook and next 5 chains, ss into next st of first round of Raglan, turn. [6]

Row 2: yoslst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, ss in blo of each st, ss into next 2 sts of first round of Raglan, turn.

Rows 2 and 3 create the Neck Band Set Pattern

Repeat the Neck Band Set Pattern around.

Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete the Neck Band.

FIRST SLEEVE

All Sizes – tailored to Mens Sizing

With RS facing, join yarn to 1st chain of underarm chain so that you will begin to work towards the Back of the sweater. I am right handed so that is the left Sleeve for me.

Round 1: ch1, Hhdc in next 2 (2, 4, 6, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10) chs, Hhdc in the next 56 (62, 68, 72, 76) (82, 84, 90, 96) sts. [58 (64, 72, 78, 86) (92, 94, 100, 106)] Work in continuous rounds now.

Round 2: Hhdc in each st around.

Round 3: Rep Round 2.

Suggestion – if you added more Hhdc rounds to the Body of the sweater then make sure to adjust here also. This will impact on the number of rounds you need to work in the Herringbone Moss Sleeve Section next.

First Sleeve – Herringbone Moss Section

When you are ready to begin the Herringbone Moss Sleeve Section, ss in 1st st of last round to join and begin working in joined rounds from now on.

Round 1: ch1, *Hhdc in next st, ch1, skip next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st to join. [58 (64, 72, 78, 86) (92, 94, 100, 106)]

Round 2: ch2 (counts as ch1-sp), Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp, *ch1, skip next st, Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp; rep from * around, ss in 1st ch of beginning ch2 to join.

Round 3: ch1, Hhdc-moss in skipped st below ch1-sp, ch1, skip next st, *Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp, ch1, skip next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st Hhdc-moss to join.

Round 4: Rep Round 2

Rounds 3 and 4 create the Set Pattern for the Herringbone Moss Sleeve Section.

After completing Round 4, each sleeve has decrease rounds at various points in the sleeve in order to shape the sleeve. When instructed to work a decrease round, follow the decrease round instructions below.

Decrease Round: ch1, Hhdc-moss2tog, ch1, skip next st, *Hhdc-moss in skipped st below next ch1-sp, ch1, skip next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st Hhdc-moss2tog to join. [2 sts decreased].

At the end, each sleeve has a final round that is worked as follows:

Final Sleeve Round: ch1, *Hhdc-moss in next skipped st below ch1-sp, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join.

The sizes are worked with the following decrease sequence for the longer sleeves (as per the schematic):

XS: Total Rounds to Work: 77

Decrease on rounds: 5, 13, 19, 27, 33, 41, 47, 55, 61, 69

Stitch count on Final Round: 38

S: Total Rounds to Work: 77

Decrease on rounds: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65, 71

Stitch count on Final Round: 40

M: Total Rounds to Work: 83

Decrease on rounds: 5, 9, 13, 19, 23, 29, 33, 39, 43, 49, 53, 59, 63, 69, 73

Stitch count on Final Round: 42

L: Total Rounds to Work: 83

Decrease on rounds: 5, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 71, 77

Stitch count on Final Round: 42

XL: Total Rounds to Work: 87

Decrease on rounds: 5, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 71, 75, 79, 83

Stitch count on Final Round: 44

2XL: Total Rounds to Work: 87

Decrease on rounds: 5, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 83

Stitch count on Final Round: 44

3XL: Total Rounds to Work: 87

Decrease on rounds: 5, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 83

Stitch count on Final Round: 44

4XL: Total Rounds to Work: 93

Decrease on rounds: 5, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 87

Stitch count on Final Round: 46

5XL: Total Rounds to Work: 93

Decrease on rounds: 5, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87

Stitch count on Final Round: 46

SLEEVE CUFF

All Sizes

The Sleeve Cuff is worked in rows using the Join As You Go technique.

Without breaking your yarn, continue from the last st of the final round of the Herringbone Moss Sleeve Section.

Foundation chain: ch 9 (all sizes but adjust as you would like).

Row 1: ss in 2nd chain from hook and next 7 chains, ss into next st of final round of Sleeve, turn. [8]

Row 2: yoslst in blo of each st, turn.

Row 3: ch1, ss in blo of each st, ss into next 2 sts of final round of Sleeve, turn.

Rows 2 and 3 create the Sleeve Cuff Set Pattern

Repeat the Sleeve Cuff Set Pattern around.

Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete the Sleeve Cuff.

SECOND SLEEVE

All Sizes

The Second Sleeve is worked in exactly the same way as the First Sleeve but to avoid joining rounds at the front of the Sleeve, you need to count back 20 (24, 30, 36, 42) (48, 50, 54, 60) stitches from the underarm chain.

This is where you need to join your yarn to begin the Second Sleeve.

Work as per the First Sleeve and then add a Sleeve Cuff.

SHORTER SLEEVE OPTIONS

If you would like shorter sleeves with more tapered cuffs then the following are suggestions using Craft Yarn Councils Women’s Standard Sizing:

Sizes XS: Total Rounds to Work: 67

Decrease on Rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59

Stitch count on Final Round: 26

Sizes S: Total Rounds to Work: 67

Decrease on Rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 61

Stitch count on Final Round: 30

Sizes M: Total Rounds to Work: 67

Decrease on Rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 61, 63, 65

Stitch count on Final Round: 34

L: Total Rounds to Work: 73

Decrease on rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69

Stitch count on Final Round: 36

XL: Total Rounds to Work: 73

Decrease on rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71

Stitch count on Final Round: 38

2XL: Total Rounds to Work: 73

Decrease on rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71

Stitch count on Final Round: 40

3XL: Total Rounds to Work: 77

Decrease on rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73

Stitch count on Final Round: 40

4XL: Total Rounds to Work: 77

Decrease on rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75

Stitch count on Final Round: 42

5XL: Total Rounds to Work: 77

Decrease on rounds: 5, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75

Stitch count on Final Round: 42

Weave in ends and block to finish.

Once you have made your sweater you can block it to measurements.

Blocking a crochet project, especially one like this sweater, can really transform it into something really spectacular. It makes the stitches sit really evenly by ‘opening them out’ and shapes the item to exactly the size it should be.

There are a few ways to block things but these are my favourites:

• Steam block – set your iron to steam and lightly steam over the project (you can do it through a protective cloth if you’re worried), then pin to measurements and allow to dry.
• Spray block – pin the project out to desired dimensions and lightly spray with water and allow to dry naturally.

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More Crochet Sweater Patterns You Might Enjoy

If you’ve enjoyed making this adult sweater pattern, then why not try a few more? Here’s a few other of my designs you might like:

• V Neck Crochet Sweater Pattern with Collar – a v neck sweater with lots of texture
• Crochet Crop Sweater Pattern – a simple celebration of crochet cables
• Crochet Hoodie Pattern – how about making a comfy hoodie with granny stitches?

Congratulations on crocheting your very own women’s and men’s crochet sweater! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun project, why stop here? Dive into my other adult crochet garment patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.

Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨